In Rue Chasselièvre, in the north-west outskirts, is St. Gervais's church, with a very ancient crypt. It was attached to the abbey in which William the Conqueror died. Near St. Lo's, behind the Palais de Justice, traces of the Roman wall were found in the 18th century. St. Nicaise, built 1388, and St. Vivien, are not far behind St. Ouen's. St. Hilaire is near the Rue de Darnetal. St. Paul's stands on the Cour de Pais, near the river side, and includes a fragment of the former one in its sacristy. St. Sever's, in the midst of that faubourg, is in Rue d'Elbœuf. In this part also are St. Yon's Asile des Aliénés (Lunatic Asylum), on a large scale.

The new Jardin des Plantes is open daily. A large well-regulated abattoir, or slaughter-house, in the Rue de Sotteville, was built in 1835. The Circus is at the Tivoli Normand. A caserne, or barrack for cavalry, is on the site of Bonne Nouvelle Priory, founded by the Conqueror's queen, and burnt and rebuilt in 1665; and a foot barrack, in Place St. Sever, near the bridge, in what was an immense salt store. A third barrack is that of Martinville, built in 1776, in front of the Champ de Mars.

The Hôtel de Préfecture stands in Rue de Fontenelle, so called after the philosopher, whose birthplace (marked "Fontenelle est né dans cette maison, le 11 Fevrier, 1657,") is a little distance off, in the Rue des Bons Enfans; while that of his uncle, the dramatist, is close by the Préfecture, in the Rue de la Pie (marked "Ici est né, le 9 Juin, 1606, Pierre Corneille.") The door, which some English amateur wished to buy, is placed at the Rouen Museum. The next house to it was inhabited by Thomas Corneille, his brother, to whom the author of the "Cid," used to apply for a rhyme when in difficulty.

On the Quai du Havre are the Douane, or Custom House, the Bourse (Exchange), and Tribunal de Commerce, in a building called the Consuls (opposite Boieldieu's statue), which contains a hall, with a Christ, by Vandyke, and two pictures by Lemonnier, a native of Rouen. Here, too, is the Théâtre des Arts, near the bridge, having an Ionic front, with a medallion of the "Grand Corneille." Théâtre Français, built in 1793, is in the Vieux Marché (or Old Market Place), the oldest in the city, where the scaffold is erected.

The

A short turn leads into the Place de la Pucelle, so called after the unfortunate Maid of Orléans, who was burnt at the stake on a spot now marked by a fountain and a ridiculous bronze of her, by Bonet. Opposite it is an excellent subject for the artist and antiquary, an old house, called Hôtel du Bourg-Theroude, in the mixed Gothic and Italian style of the 15th century, with a turret hanging over the front, and, in the court, various carvings and bas-reliefs of the Field of the Cloth of Gold (see Ardres), and other subjects. Shrewsbury (the the French call him "Scherosbery "), Elizabeth's ambassador to Henry IV., was lodged here.

The Rue de la Grosse Horloge, is so called from the Gothic Clock Tower, dated 1389-98, (the great bell which still sounds the couvre-feu, or curfew, is a century later). It is ascended by 200 steps; is joined to part of the old Hôtel de Ville, built 1527, and has, on the fountain, bas-reliefs of Arethusa and Alpheus, which the people take for "Le Bon Homme Rouen," the "founder" of the town. A little further, in Rue des Carmes, near the cathedral, are, the half Gothic Bureau des Finances, built 1509, decorated with arabesques, and the écu de France, supported by porcupines; and the old Chambres des Comptes, built 1525, by Francis I. In the Rue aux Juifs (Jew-street), is one of the most beautiful things in Rouen, the

Palais de Justice, opposite the Neuf Marché (New Market), a low-pitched Gothic structure, built 1493-9, by Louis XII.'s minister, Cardinal d'Amboise, for the ancient Echiquier or provincial States, and lately restored. The front, towards the court, is 212 feet long, with pinnacled windows in the roof, and an octagon tower in the middle; a staircase, built 1607, leads to the Salle des Procureurs, 181 feet by 53, having a woodwork ceiling, compared to the frame of a ship.

In Rue du Grand Maulevrier is the College, first built for the Jesuits, by Cardinal de Joyeuse, whose tomb is in the chapel, which Catherine de Medicis added, 1614. Behind is the Seminary for priests. Between Rues Caquerel and Cavilles is the Bicêtre, or House of Correction; and nearer the Boulevard Martinville, the general Hospice, or asylum, an extensive pile, where 2,000 orphans and poor people are kept. At the opposite side of the town, in Rue de Lecat, is the great hospital for the sick, the

Hôtel Dieu, or Madeleine, built 1749-56, having 600 beds, and a chapel, built 1781, with a dome, a Corinthian portico, and two pictures by Vincent.

At or close to the site of Easse Vielle Tour (near the Quai de Paris), where they say John murdered his nephew Arthur, are the three Halles, or market halls (328 feet long) for corn, linen, cotton tissues, and checks, called Rouenneries, &c., which offer a very lively appearance on Wednesday, between six an twelve. To the west is the old Fontaine de Lisieux, built 1518; another, the Fontaine-de-laCrosse, at the top of Rue des Carmes, has many arabesque ornaments about it; the Fontaine de Croix-de-Pierre, is in Rue St. Hilaire: altogether there are 38 fountains, fed from four different sources. Of eight open places for markets, that for butter is at Rougemar (in Rue Bourglabbé), where Duke Richard, in 949, beat the French and Germans; the Boulingrin (bowling green), in Bouvoisine Boulevard is used for the sale of horses. The road here leads up to the churches of Longpaon and Carville, and Leveillé's spinning works,

Darnetal. Near the Champs de Foire (Fair Field), the site of the old palace built by Henry V., is the tower of Mal-s'y-frotte (which means, "He meddled for the worst") lying on this side of the spot where William Long-sword, son of Rollo, routed the people of Cotentin.

Two towers, called Donjon and Gascon, in Rue de la Glacière, are left of Philippe Auguste's château, built 1205, and afterwards turned into an Ursuline convent. Many local antiquities and elics, including Coeur-de-Lion's heart, in a box, are preserved in the departmental Museum, at the old convent of St. Marie, in Rue de Poussin, besides a collection of natural history: open Tuesday and Thursday, from twelve to three. Old carved houses may be noticed in Grande Rue (Nos. 115, 120, &c.), Rue du Change, Rue Eloupée (No. 4), the house of Jouvenet, the painter, and many more. On Sapins hill is the Cimitière Monumental; there are six others, one being for Protestants. Ecoles de Natation, or swimming schools, on Iles Lacroix and Petit Gay.

Besides the Corneilles and Fontenelle, Rouen claims as natives, Benserade, the poet; Jouvenet, Restoul, and Géricault, the painters; Boieldieu, the composer; Count Mollier, Napoléon's minister of

finance; Armand Carrel; and Louis Brune, who saved the lives of more than sixty persons: on his house you read this memorial from his townsmen, "A Louis Brune, la Ville de Rouen."

Its manufactures are the cotton Rouenneries already mentioned, calicoes, prints, linen, thread, flannels, cloth, soap, chemicals, steam engines, leather, refined sugar, confitures of great fame, &c.; and it is an entrepôt for wine and spirits, grain, salt fish, spices, dyewoods, cotton, wool, hemp, slate, iron, tar, &c. The shipping and foreign trade are about one-third that of Havre. By improvements made latterly in the navigation of the Seine, a large American vessel, the Mary Ann, laden with cotton, &c., from New Orleans, was, in 1852, able to reach the city-the first direct importation of the kind.

Conveyances: By rail, to Fécamp, Paris, Dieppe, Havre, Elbœuf, Pont-Audemer, Gisors, Beauvais, and Amiens. Steamer to Elbœuf.

[The line to Amiens, 73 miles long, passes Monterollier-Buchy, where the chord line from Cléres, &c., comes in. Then; Forges-les-Eaux, near the intersection of this line with the direct line from Paris to Dieppe, and so called because of its mineral waters, in a valley near the Forest of Bray, which are drunk from July to September; are clear and sparkling, with a temperature of 43°, and have an excellent tonic quality. Anne of Austria took them before the birth of Louis XIV.; and after her, Louis XIII., and Richelieu, they were named la Reinette, la Royale, and la Cardinale.

Hotel.-Du Mouton d'Or (Golden Sheep or Fleece). Then come Poix and

Amiens, where lines may be taken to Arras and Tergnier (49 miles).]

Leaving Rouen, by rail, we cross to Sotteville and its factory chimneys and workshops; then comes St. Etienne de Rouvray, and the forest in which William the Conqueror was hunting when he first heard of the death of Edward the Confessor. The next station is

Oissel (9 miles), which has a church with a tall tower and spire. Population, 3,480. Thence across the Seine by a narrow viaduct on six arches, each 98 feet span, to

Tourville (mile), where is a branch rail of five miles to Elbœuf. The total fall of the railway from Paris to this station is 91 feet.

[The branch rail passes the Seine, close to a sus

pension bridge over a bend of the river, and reaches

Elbœuf, a thriving town of 25,700 souls, among cloth factories, in a valley bordered by a chain of hills, which crop out at the chalk cliffs of Orival in the river. It has two churches, St. Etienne being the older and smaller, and both ornamented with stained glass; and it is watered by artesian wells. Steamers to Rouen daily. The rail is continued to Brionne and Bernay.

Hotels.-Le Boeuf d'Or (Golden Bull); Lion d'Or.] A tunnel 1,140 feet long leads to the next station. Pont-de-l'Arche (3 miles) to the south, across the Seine, here spanned by a long 22-arch bridge, to which it owes its name, is a pretty place, in Ouche district, in Upper Normandy, and was built and fortified 854, by Charles the Bold, who held two councils there. Its high-roofed Church has a spire and buttresses, with stained glass of the 14th century. A house stands in the middle of the bridge, near an island, on which it rests, once covered by a fort. Behind the village stretches a large forest. Coaches to Charleval, Fleury, St. Andelle, La Forêt, Pont St. Pierre.

At Villers, where N. Poussin, the painter, was born, 1594, is a tunnel 5,643 feet long, cut through in 17 months; another at Venables, 1,410 feet long. The river makes several islands here. At Manoir, on the north side of the Seine, opposite the Eure's mouth, the railway crosses by a viaduct of six arches, each 98 feet span.

[From Pont-de-l'Arche a branch rail of 54 miles to Gisors, on the direct Paris and Dieppe line, passes by

Romilly (miles), or Romilly St. Andelle, and
its large copper foundries, on the Andelle,
which employ 1,100 or 1,200 hands. Here
Cardinal d'Amboise's great cathedral clock
was brought from Rouen, and melted down for
cannons at the Revolution.

Fleury, on the same line, 6 miles further up,
has good views of the valley of the river.
About 10 kil. beyond is Lyons-la-Forêt, on the
C

Lieur, near the remains of the abbey church of Mortemer, founded by Henry II. of England. The other stations towards Gisors are Menesqueville, Saussay, and Etrepagny.] St. Pierre-du-Vouvray (8 miles), near Praslin Park, Igoville, André, and other châteaux. A branch rail to Louviers; thence by coach to Beaumont-le-Roger, Neubourg, Bernay (see Route 11). Evreux is 22 kil. beyond Louviers in the same Route. [Louviers (5 miles south-west by rail), a souspréfecture of 11,000 inhabitants, chiefly weavers of fine cloth, and an ancient town in the rich plain of the Eure, where Richard I. and Philippe Auguste made a treaty, 1196. It was taken by Edward III., and again by Henry V., who dismantled it, except a small part of the walls. An old Church of the 12th century, partly Norman in its style; a Knight Templar's house of the 12th century, and timber houses (in the old town) are seen; besides several factories, dye-works, a bibliothèque, salle-de-spectacle, three bridges, &c. A line from here to Dreux (p. 67) is part of the Outer Circle, designed to save travellres the necessity of going on to Paris when travelling south.] Gaillon (9 miles), 2 kil. west of the rail, in a fine spot, has a House of Correction, on the site of the château of the Rouen archbishops, built about 1262, burnt by the English, and restored in the Renaissance style of the 16th century, by Cardinal d'Amboise, but finally ruined at the Revolution. Its gate is now placed in the Palais des Beaux Arts, in Paris, and a painting of it is at the primate's palace at Rouen. Part of the beautiful park remains. It was a favourite retreat of Francis I. This is the most northerly place in France for wine, a poor sort, from a small black grape. Near this is the Château de Navarre, built by Jeanne of Navarre, 1532, and rebuilt 1686, by Mansard, for the Ducs de Bouillon, and for a time the seat of the Empress Josephine. Grisolle and Rotoirs are also near, and Abloville, where Marmontel died. [COURCELLES is across the river. At 10 kil. north of it, at the suspension bridge, on a bend of the Seine, is

LES ANDELYS, a sous-préfecture of 5,900 souls, near Château Galliard, a fine picturesque ruin, on a peak, built 1197, in defiance of Philip

by Richard Coeur de Lion, at Petit Andely, tó command the river, and dismantled by Henry IV. The vicious Margaret de Bourgogne was strangled here, 1315, by order of Louis X.; and Cardinal Balue shut up his victim, Charles de Mellieu, in it. At the hospital, founded by the Duc de Penthièvre, is a plaster figure of St. Main, against which mothers rub their children to cure them of colic. Grand Andely, on the Gambon, further inland, and an older place, grew out of a monastery called Andelicum, founded by Clothilde, and burnt 1170, by the English. Near the curious old chapel, called after her (now a vinegar work), is her fountain, into which sick persons and newborn infants are plunged. The half Gothic church has a good portal, stained windows, and Lesueur's "Jesus in the Temple." At the Hôtel de Ville is Poussin's "Coriolanus." Blanchard, the æronaut, was a native; Henry IV.'s father, Antoine de Bourbon, died here, 1552, of a wound received at the siege of Rouen; T. Corneille had a house here in which he died. Sir I. K. Brunel, the constructor of the Thames Tunnel, was born at Hacqueville, in this neighbourhood. Cloth is made, and pèches d'ablettes, for false pearls, are caught.

Hotels.-Du Grand Cerf (Stag); Des Trois Rois (Three Kings).]

Vernon (8 miles), belonged to the Norman aneestor of the Vernons, of Kinderton, in England. It stands in a fine hollow, at the 22-arched bridge Vernonnet; as a frontier town of Normandy, it was fortified by Henry II., and frequently suffered in the wars with France. An old tower, built by Henry II., remains; also a good Gothic church (Nôtre Dame) having a carved black marble tomb; and St. Just's hospital, or Hôtel Dieu, founded by St. Louis, and rebuilt 1776, by the Duc de Penthièvre. It has, besides, an artillery depôt, and a small salle de spectacle. To the west is the charming Park, and Château de Bisy, which belonged to the Orléans family. A tower at Vernonnet, is called Julius Cæsar's; the Château de la Madeline was the seat of Casimir Delavigne, the poet. Population. 7,400. Hotel.-Grand Cerf (Stag).

From Pacy-sur-Eure (see page 43) a branch line

Bordeaux St. Clare, &c., to Gisors. Coach to Baugon, Corbie, &c.

[Gisors (23 miles north-east), on the Epte, at the junction of lines to Pontoise, Gournay, and Pont-de-l'Arche; having the keep and other remains of a feudal Castle, begun by William the Conqueror and Henry I. (who received Pope Calixtus here, 1120), and finished by Henry II. (who met Philippe Auguste here, 1188, about a new crusade). Philippe Auguste fled hither on his defeat by Richard I., at Courcelles, 1198, and was nearly drowned by the falling of the bridge. It was at this battle that Richard chose "Dieu et Mon Droit" for his motto. The town walls and moats are now turned into promenades. A Gothic church of the 15th century, has a well-carved Renaissance portal, a jubé and marble figure by Goujon, and stained windows. St. Paer's tower, of the 13th century, is outside. Population, 3,700. Hotels.-Du Bras d'Or (Golden Arm); De l'Écu (Crown Piece).

Further down, across the river, in the forest of Vernon, are Pressagny, called l'Orgueilleux (the Proud), though it has not much to be proud of, and Port-Mort, where Louis VIII. married Blanche de Castile. The Seine is crowded with pretty islands here.]

Leaving Vernon, a skew bridge and a massive embankment are passed. Near Port Villey (opposite the Epte's mouth, not far from Camp de Cæsar), you leave the province of Normandy and department Eure, to enter the department of Seine-Inféri

eure.

The next station is

Bonnières (6 miles), where a branch to the Caen and Cherbourg line turns off. (See Route 11.) [At 7 kil. north, on the bend made by the Seine, here crossed by a handsome suspension bridge, is La Roche Guyon, with the Norman tower and chapel of an old castle, taken by the English, 1418; below which is the more modern seat of the Rochefoucaulds, where they show the bed, portrait, and furniture of Henry IV. Here Francis de Bourbon was killed, by a box thrown on his head, 1545.]

Next to Bonnières is a tunnel, 8,682 feet long,

through the chalk, which cost twenty months, and nearly half a million pounds of powder, to make; beyond which is the pretty village of Rolleboise, which has part of the castle taken from the English, by Dugueselin, on the slope of the river, a little further.

Rosny (3 miles), close to a forest. Here stands the old high-roofed brick château in which Rosny, Duc de Sully, the faithful friend and minister of Henry IV. was born, 1539. It belonged to the late Duchesse de Berry.

[At 22 kil. south-west is

Ivry-la-Bataille, under a hill, on the Eure, celebrated for the victory of Henry IV. and his Protestant subjects, in 1590, over the Leaguers, under their Captain-General, the Duke of Mayenne, assisted by the "hireling chivalry of Gueldres and Almayne." The field is marked by a pyramid 56 feet high. Macaulay's stirring lines on this victory are well known :"And then we thought on vengeance, and all along our van,

'Remember Saint Bartholomew,' was passed from man to man,

But out spake gentle Henry, 'No Frenchman is my foe,

Down, down with every foreigner, but let your brethren go.""]

Mantes (3 miles), is a buffet, 35 miles from Paris, 108 from Rouen. Here the line to Evreux, Caen, and Cherbourg turns off, opposite Limay, at the bridge of 3 arches (each 127 feet span, resting on Ile Champion). It is called la Jolie, or pretty, because of its situation, and is a sous-préfecture, with 5,400 souls. William the Conqueror burnt it, 1096, to revenge himself on Louis, and received the hurt of which he died a little while after. Edward III. pillaged the town on his way to Crécy. It was taken from the English by Du Guesclin, and again by Charles VII.

Nôtre Dame church, with its triple portal, tall square towers of different ages, lofty nave 105 feet high (supported by buttresses), delicate choir, pillars, &c., was founded by Jeanne of France. Of another church, St. Maclou, only a beautiful slender tower (1340-4) is left. The old château, in which Philippe Anguste died, was pulled down 1721. In Grand Rue is a house which la Belle Gabrielle lodged in when Henry IV. came to visit her. He was here again with his queen, Marie de Medicis, in 1609,

staying at the château above-mentioned, which appears to have been a favourite resort of his. The public library contains 4,060 volumes, and there are several fountains, with some parts of the old walls. At Limay, opposite, is a hermitage, to which pilgrimages are made.

Hotels.-Le Grand Cerf (Stag); De la Chasse Royal.

Trade in wine, corn, leather, and timber. Rail 1 or coach to Aincourt, Arthies, Drocourt, Fontenay, • Gisors, Houdan, Magny, Mollest, Orvilliers, Richebourg, Rosé, Septeuil, Vert, Villette. A new bridge leads out of the town.

Epone (5 miles), is near a dolmen, or Druid pile. Several Celtic and Roman remains have been found, It possesses an old church, and an older seat of the Créquys. Coaches to Aunay, Maule, Nezel.

Meulan (5 miles), is opposite Mereux, where the station is, which the rail reaches by a skew bridge over the Ruplat stream. To Meulan, across the Seine, there is an old bridge, resting on the Ile Belle. It was a fortified town, which the Duc de Mayenne unsuccessfully besieged in the civil wars. One of its two churches (it had also a priory and convent) is now a corn-market. Chateaubriand had a seat here; and M. Guizot is now a resident. Population, 2,200.

Hotel.-Royal.

[At 7 miles north, is Vigny Château, which belonged to Cardinal d'Amboise, minister of Louis XII., and a munificent patron of the arts. Jugien, further on, was a country-house of the bishops of Chartres.]

Triel (3 miles), opposite Vernouillet (north side), where Talleyrand's brother lived, has an oldfashioned church, with a centre spire-tower, built by Francis I.; it contains some stained windows,