A

TOUR

THROUGH

BELGIUM, &c.

LETTER I.

MY DEAR SIR,

BEFORE setting out for the continent, it was settled between us, that I should take notes of whatever I should see interesting or new. As the route proposed was one not generally taken by our countrymen, we flattered ourselves, that the journey might afford information and amusement. I am now returned, and at leisure to decipher and write out my notes at full length. They shall be sent you regularly as they are finished, for your perusal.

When I left Ramsgate, there were several gentlemen obliged to remain till next evening: for having paid in London for

B

2

VOYAGE FROM RAMSGATE.

places all the way to Brussels, they had to wait for a packet in connection with the advertising company in London. This may prove a useful caution to travellers by sea or by land. The gale was brisk, and the North Foreland light, which shone like a star behind us, gradually receded: we enjoyed the breeze, until the lateness of the hour and the motion of the ship sent us below. At ten next morning nobody knew where we were. We therefore stood to the east, and the first land seen was conjectured to be the tower of West Cappel in Walcheren, which rose high from the sea. Our wise navigators having observed the sun's altitude at twelve o'clock, steered southerly, and at seven in the evening regaled us with the sight of the towers and white cliffs of Dunkirk, thirty miles south of Ostend. I acquired faith by this voyage, to believe more than formerly in the classic wanderings of Ulysses and Æneas. We were not uneasy; as the company on board. was cheerful and well-informed, we enjoyed each other's conversation; and even felt pleasure in the variety of an occasional peal of thunder; nor did we disdain to re

ceive amusement from the fluttering about the ship of a poor butterfly, which the gale had carried many leagues to sea.

We

We moved along the shore, and at one the light on the end of the long pier of Ostend seemed close at hand. Other two lights farther off, close by the town, at once announced to us, that the tide was sufficient to admit us, and directed our way. passed the light-house and battery, and proceeded up the river, which forms the harbour, and soon after our vessel grounded on the sands, behind the other pier close by the town. The tide rapidly ebbed, and as the vessel was falling uncomfortably on her side, soon after four o'clock we left her, clambered over several vessels, and at length set our feet on the territories of His Majesty the King of the Netherlands.

We immediately had an opportunity of remarking the great acquisitions in modern languages, possessed by the natives of this town. A humble pilot was walking on the pier in his great coat, and we addressed him in French, inquiring at what hour the custom-house opened, that we might have our luggage examined. He informed us

4

MIXTURE OF LANGUAGES.

in the same language, and inquired about our voyage. In a few minutes afterwards, he spoke to us in good English: for from much intercourse with English seamen he had also acquired that language. He pronounced the English tolerably well. Two other boatmen coming, with whom he seemed to have some misunderstanding, he presently shewed, that however he might in calm blood make use of foreign languages, his own native Flemish was the dialect in which he expressed the strong emotions of his heart. On casting our eyes around, we immediately saw by the signs on the houses, that our language was known, and the intercourse of our countrymen courted. On a little public-house next the shipping, the Flemish motto, "Well kom Binnen laft vallen u anker," though not very difficult to understand, had the English translation, as an invitation to our mariners, “Welcome within, let fall your anchor." As we walked up into the town, we perceived that the same attention to convey information. to our countrymen was very prevalent in Ostend. In fact, it would be difficult to say, which of the three languages was

FRENCH LANGUAGE.

5

most in use. Many houses had signs in two languages, and some in three. Few posting bills but had a translation in a parallel column, of equal authority with the original. The names of the streets put up at the corners in French, announced the ascendancy of that tongue. We afterwards found that in every town in the country, every possible means had been taken to render French the prevalent speech. It is affected by all the higher ranks as their native language. Even the present Government, either from choice, but more likely from necessity, publishes its edicts in the language of its chief enemy, and the very official gazette of the kingdom of the Netherlands has one column in Dutch, and the parallel column in French. The King's Ministers at the Hague, having made a speech to the States in Dutch, repeat it in French.

It was five o'clock on Monday morning when we walked up into the town. It was an early hour for London, but not so at Ostend. The Groot Kerk, or great Church, was already open; we entered it, and noticed forty or fifty people already on