At Belleifle lies buried Catherine of Arragon, widow of Prince Arthur, eldest son of our Henry VII. afterwards married to, and divorced from, Henry VIII. Clofe by the church where her remains are depofited, is a large convent of Geronymites, one of the most beautiful piles of building in all Portugal.

In the night at twelve, our fhip having received previous vifits from all the neceffary par ties, took the advantage of the tide, and having failed up to Lifbon, caft anchor there in a calm, and a moonfhiny night, which made the paffage incredibly pleasant to the women, who remained three hours enjoying it, whilft I was left to the cooler tranfports of enjoying their pleasures at fecond-hand; and yet, cooler as they may be, whoever is totally ignorant of fuch fenfation, is, at the fame time, void of all ideas of friendship.

Wednesday. Lisbon, before which we now lay at anchor, is faid to be built on the fame number of hills with old Rome; but thefe do not all appear to the water; on the contrary, one fees from thence one vaft high hill and rock, with buildings arifing above one another, and that in fo fteep and almoft perpendicular a manner, that they all seem to have but one foundation.

As the houfes, convents, churches, &c. are large, and all built with white ftone, they look very beautiful at a diftance; but as you approach nearer, and find them to want every kind of ornament, all idea of beauty vanishes at once. While I was furveying the profpect of this city, which bears fo little refemblance to any other that I have ever seen, a reflection occurred to me,

that if a man was fuddenly to be removed from Palmyra hither, and fiould take a view of no other city, in how glorious a light would the antient architecture appear to him? and what defolation and deftruction of arts and fciences would he conclude had happened between the feveral æras of these cities?

I had now waited full three hours upon deck, for the return of my man, whom I had fent to befpeak a good dinner (a thing which had been long unknown to me) on fhore, and then to bring a Lisbon chaife with him to the fea-fhore; but, it feems, the impertinence of the providore was not yet brought to a conclufion. At three o'clock, when I was from emptinefs rather faint than hungry, my man returned, and told me, there was a new law lately made, that no paffenger fhould fet his foot on fhore without a fpecial order from the providore; and that he himfelf would have been fent to prifon for difobeying it, had he not been protected as the fervant of the captain. He informed me likewife, that the captain had been very induftrious to get this order, but that it was then the providore's hour of fleep, a time when no man, except the king himself, durft difturb him.

To avoid prolixity, though in a part of my narrative which may be more agreeable to my reader than it was to me, the providore having at laft finished his nap, difpatched this abfurd matter of form, and gave me leave to come, or rather to be carried, on fhore.

What it was that gave the firft hint of this ftrange law is not eafy to guefs. Poffibly, in the infancy of their defection, and before their government could be well established, they were

willing to guard against the bare poffibility of furprize, of the fuccefs of which bare poffibility the Trojan horse will remain for ever on record, as a great and memorable example. Now the Portuguese have no walls to fecure them, and a veffel of two or three hundred tons will contain a much larger body of troops than could be concealed in that famous machine, though Virgil tells us (fomewhat hyperbolically, I believe) that it was as big as a mountain.

About feven in the evening I got into a chaife on shore, and was driven thro' the nastiest city in the world, though at the same time one of the most populous, to a kind of coffee-house, which is very pleasantly fituated on the brow of a hill, about a mile from the city, and hath a very fine profpect of the river Tajo from Lisbon to the fea.

Here we regaled ourselves with a good fupper, for which we were as well charged, as if the bill had been made on the Bath road, between Newbury and London.

And now we could joyfully fay,

Egreffi optata Troes potiuntur ærena.

Therefore, in the words of Horace,

-hic finis chartaque viaque,

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3 Sentimental Journey (by Sterne), vol. 1