river the beautiful bluffs of which I have spoken. While I stood on the Mamelles, and was looking in that direction, slight clouds and banks of mist obscured them from view. In a few moments the wind arose and dispersed the mists, and they burst upon me in all the splendour of their height and hoary whiteness. My companion, accustomed as he was to the view, and not at all addicted to raptures, exclaimed that he had never seen them look so beautiful. For myself, although I had seen on passing them that they were on the skirt of an unpeopled solitude, I could hardly persuade myself, so complete was the illusion, that I did not behold a noble and ancient town, built of stone, whose immense buildings were surmounted with towers and spires.

On the following day, the 28th April, Mr. Lebarge conducted me to the United States barracks, upon the Mississippi, about ten miles to the southward of St. Louis. The barracks consist of a plain and handsome oblong building, in which, at present, there are about 500 troops; but there is sufficient accommodation for double that number. There is an eminently beautiful terrace on the east side of the building overhanging the river, indeed, the finest terrace, so far as I have observed, upon the Mississippi. The ground in the neighbourhood is sprinkled with large and spreading single oak trees, so that the place altogether has very much the appearance of a heavywooded English park. The ground is beautifully undulated. We passed through the village of Carondelet in going to the barracks, and in returning we crossed a small river, more swollen than we had expected, which took Mr. Lebarge's horses off their feet for a moment; but I found that trifling difficulties did not startle Mr. Lebarge, and I was encouraged by what I saw on our expedition on these two days, to engage him to take me through Illinois.

CHAPTER XXX.

Journey in Illinois-Cross the Ferry at St. Louis-Road through the Prairie to Edwardsville, and from thence to Lower Alton-Mr. Mil5 ler's Hotel-Ride on Horseback to the Confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi-Charlevoix's Description of the Confluence-The River Illinois-Description-French Emigration to this CountryBoatable Communication of this Country-Great Military Bounty Tract in Illinois-Description-Soil-Parts of it unhealthy-Sangamon District of Country the finest-General Description of the State -Extent-Population-Description of Sangamon District-Stop at Mr. Picket, the Priest's-Details of himself and his Family and Farm -Striking Resemblance to the Vicar of Wakefield-Absurdity of giving Females romantic Names-Breakfast at Carrolton, the Capital of Green County in the Sangamon District-Appearance of the Soil-Dr. Eaton's Account of its Healthiness-Great Extent of a beautiful and rich Prairie-Laid out by the Hand of Nature, as if it were an English Park-Arrival at Jacksonville, the Capital of Morgan County in the Sangamon District-Tom Bentley's HotelLaughable Conduct of the Inmates-Situation of Jacksonville-Its Rapid Progress-Handsome Academy-Church-Distance from the River Illinois-Population of Green, Morgan, and Sangamon Counties, of which the Sangamon District is composed-Mr. Wilson's Plantations-Details-Two Crops of Wheat without sowing Seed for the second-Mr. Wilson's Character of Tom Bentley-Rate of Boarding in the Academy, and in the Town of Jacksonville-Mr. Hayne's Plantation-Only Difficulty in the first breaking up of the Palic Sermon by Mr. Sturtevant in the School-house-Expense of Education in the Academy-English Settlements on the West Side of Jacksonville-Mr. Killan's Plantation-Full Details--Messrs. Alisons', of Yorkshire, Plantations Their Success after a Seven Years' Residence-Advantages of their Situation-Mr. Brick, a Presbyterian Clergyman from Cheshire, settled near Jacksonville--His interesting Account of this Country-Absurdities of the Hotel People continued-Visit to Mr. James Kerr-Satisfactory Details received from him-His Voyage from Leith, Success at New-York, and Acquisition of 500 Acres of beautiful Land here-Markets-Run for Cattle in the Prairie-Great Emigration to Illinois-Difficulty of having Servants in this Country-View from Mr. Kerr's House-Mr. Kerr wishes, after a Ten Years' Residence here, that some of his Friends from Scotland should join him--Emigrants should have Credentials -Continuation of the Prairie Ground to Springfield, the Capital of Sangamon County, in Sangamon District--Fine Country--Particulars to be attended to by Emigrants to this District of CountrySituation of Springfield-Bad Hotel-Saucy People-Meet Mr. Strawbridge from Donegal in Ireland, who was ten Years in Ohio, and has possessed 640 Acres for ten Years in this District-Ample Details from him-Newspapers at Jacksonville and Springfield

Details from Mr. Wallace, a Nova Scotia Man, and Mr. Lucas, a Kentuckian, who have Plantations here-Meet Emigrants on the Road, coming here with their Property for Settlements-Pass through the Grand Prairie of Illinois-A small Prairie to be preferred to a large one-Mr. Henderson's Hotel and Plantation-Civility in the Manners of the People-Stop at Colonel Soard's PlantationMeet Mr. Maclintoc-His Account of Mr. Birkbeck-His Account of the Fertility of the Land near Vincennes-Arrive at Vandalia, the Seat of Legislature of Illinois-Mr. Duncan's Hotel-Politeness of Mrs. Hall-Attention of Mr. Blackwell, the Publisher of the Illinois Intelligencer-Fertility of Soil-Rate of Interest-Antiquarian and Historical Society of Vandalia-Their Proceedings publishedExtract from Judge Hall's Address to the Society-Canal from Lake Michigan to Illinois River-Proposals for Publications in Illinois Newspapers-Publication of Illinois Monthly MagazineDescription of Mississippi Valley extracted from it, as well as of the Prairie Land of Illinois-Mr. Durham's Plantation, twenty-five Miles from Vandalia-Road through the Occa Flats very bad-Quantity of Honey at Mr. Durham's-Plantation for the New-Orleans Market -Mr. Durham's Activity and Desire for Information respecting Farming-Proceed to Elliot's Hotel, and, from want of Bread there, to Cycle's Hotel-His Statement of General Jackson's Attention to him-Ramsay's Hotel-Proceed to a neighbouring Plantation for the Night-Miserable Place and People-Details-Wanborough, and the Settlement of Messrs. Birkbeck and Flower-The English Prairie-The Town of Albion-Mr. Birkbeck's Property not in good Order Mr. Pritchard's Plantation and Cottage quite a Bijou-Plenty of Work here for the Suffering Population of England -All have prospered here who came with small Funds-Mr. Birkbeck's Labourers now all Landed Proprietors-Details as to Albion -Substantial Improvements-Mrs. Oveat's Hotel-Meet Mr. Stevens. an old Acquaintance-Visit to Mr. Flower-Polite Attentions of him and Mrs. Flower-Beauty of his Situation on the PrairieHis and Mrs. Flower senior's House-Ride through the Prairie with Mr. Flower-Wolf-trap-Rate of Interest-Important Details communicated by Mr. Flower respecting the Advantages of the Situation -Good Sweet Wine made here-Improved Land may be had hereDr. Spring, an English Physician's neat Cottage-Other CottagesDr. Spring and Mr. Stevens show me the rest of the English Prairie -General Correctness of Mr. Birkbeck's Statements-Soil here not equal to the Sangamon District-Great Advantage of the State of Illinois for Emigrants-Hints to them-Ride to Bompas-Mr. Cole's Farm-Beautiful Plantation belonging to Mr. Thomson from East Lothian-Information received from him-Mr. Lebarge's Observation on Mr. Thomson's Farm-Letter from Mr. Duncan, with important Information as to Settlements in Illinois-Road to the Ferry over the Fox River, where Mr. Birkbeck was drowned-Mr. Birkbeck's Name always mentioned with respect here-Ferry across the Wabash, and Arrival at Harmony, in the State of Indiana.

April and May, 1830. On the 29th of April, we left St. Louis, and after crossing in the ferryboat to the opposite side of the Mississippi, we

proceeded to the northward; my first object being to have a view from the heights on the east side of the Mississippi of the confluence of the Mississippi and the Missouri.

A considerable part of our drive was through the prairie, where the road was a mere track, but generally smooth and good, unless where the ground was wet or swampy, in which case we were sometimes detained, picking out the driest land we could find. The road improved after we left the prairie, and before we reached Edwardsville was very good. At Edwardsville there are considerable settlements. After waiting at the hotel there in vain for half an hour for some dinner, which was promised, I found the day so far advanced that it was imprudent to stay long, especially as Mr. Lebarge had informed me after starting this morning, that, with the view to render us independent, he had brought along with him a dozen of venison hams, which are sold at St. Louis at sixpence sterling a piece, a loaf of bread, and a bottle of rye whiskey.

I was

At the next hotel where we had intended to stop, there was no room for us, and we did not arrive at Lower Alton, three miles above the junction of the rivers, until past ten o'clock in the evening, both hungry and tired. There was bright moonlight; and we passed through some splendid oaks before we reached Mr. Miller's hotel, quite a second-rate house of entertainment, where the inmates were already in bed. Mr. Miller soon appeared and helped us to carry in the baggage, before there was any light except that afforded by the moon. told I could have a separate room. A small room upon the right was pointed out, and Mr. Miller was showing me the way to it through another room. Before going in I asked if there was any one in the room. "Yes," he replied "my lady is in bed." Mrs. Miller, however, quickly appeared, lighted a fire, and soon gave us excellent coffee, and ham and eggs. I found, next morning, that Lower Alton was in a very beautifully situated part of the river, with fine trees in the vicinity, and several houses in progress of building. The position is so fine, that the place has been talked of as the seat of the legislature, but at present there are only a few houses. The climate is so mild in this country, and the winter so short, that, although the cattle are never lodged in a house, they are already fat (the 29th April). There is a beautiful Mamelle above Lower Alton, from which the view of the Mississippi is very splendid. Having told Mr. Miller my wish to visit the confluence of the rivers, he at once volunteered to accompany me as guide. I mounted one of the barouche horses, and he rode one of his

own.

The heights on the river-side opposite the confluence very closely approach its edge, and from these heights I enjoyed one of the most extraordinary views in the world. Opposite to the height where I stood I beheld the greatest of the American rivers bringing his vast volume of waters with impetuosity into the clear and comparatively smoothly gliding stream of the Mississippi. The rivers at this point almost form a sea, adorned with islands. The Mississippi is a mile and a half broad. The width of the Missouri at the opening is rather more than half a mile. On the one side is the beautiful valley of Illinois, and on the other the Mamelle Prairie, and a great extent in every direction of cultivated land, as well as of beautiful forest trees.

I rode along the bank of the river for a considerable way, so as distinctly to perceive the clear water of the Mississippi close to the bank on the east side of the river, and a few yards further to the westward the turbid water of the Missouri.

Charlevoix, the best historian of the early French discoveries in North America, and who was in America in 1724, says of this confluence of the rivers, "I believe this is the finest confluence in the world. The two rivers are much of the same breadth, each about half a league, but the Missouri is by far the most rapid, and seems to enter the Mississippi like a conqueror, through which it carries its white waves to the opposite shore without mixing them. Afterward it gives its colour to the Mississippi, which it never loses again, but carries quite down to the sea."

At about fifteen miles to the north-west of Lower Alton is the mouth of the river Illinois, which gives its name to the state, and which is the most important river, having its whole course within one state, in North America. It enters the Mississippi through a deep forest, by a mouth 400 yards wide; and no river in the western country has so fine a boatable navigation for so great a distance, its whole length being about 400 miles, most of it accessible for steamboats. It was on the banks of this river that the French emigrants from Canada, more than a century ago, fixed themselves, and here was the scenery of which they gave so highly coloured descriptions. The intersection of the state of Illinois by waters is such, that no settlement can be made in it far from a point of boatable communication; from Lake Michigan, the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Illinois, the Kaskaskia, the Rock River, the Wabash, or some of the other smaller rivers of the state. The state is understood at present to have