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THREE YEARS

IN

NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER XXI.

Journey to the South-Frankford-Colonel Burn-Visit to him-Terrapins-Canvass-back duck-Its excellence-Philadelphia MarketMansion-house at Philadelphia-Stage to Baltimore-Colonel Mechia-Hominie-Passage of the Susquehannah-Baltimore-Statue of Washington-Journey to Washington with three Cherokee Indians-Gadesby's Hotel-The Capitol-Pictures in the Great Rotunda, painted by Colonel Trumbull--Colonel Trumbull's Imprisonment in the Tower-Benjamin West's Intercession for him with George the Third-The King's Courteous Answer to Mr. WestSupreme Court of the United States-President's House-Permanent Committees of the House of Representatives, appointed by the Speaker-Debates in the House of Representatives--Period allotted to them-Silence maintained-No "Hear, Hear,"-Mr. Foote's Motion-Speakers in Congress-Mr. Clay-Mr.Webster and Mr. Hayne -Mr. Berrian-Mr. Wirt-All Members conversant with BusinessInconvenience of Secretaries of State not being in Congress-Character of Mr.Webster-Mr. Hayne-Mr. Berrian-Mr. Wirt-Mr. Livingston-Mr. Rowand--Colonel Johnson-His Report on the subject of the Conveyance of the Mail on Sundays-Mr. Madison's Paper on Religious Freedom-Mr. Cambreling-His Report on the Tariff Laws Customs of Congress-Divine Service every Sunday in the House of Representatives-Mr. Kennedy, Theological Bookseller from Scotland-Mr. Kennedy's Brother a Senator in Maryland, formerly a Member of the British Convention-Sermon by Mr. Durbin -President Jackson present-Visit to Mr. Smith, the Registrar of ! the Treasury-Visit to the President-Details-Visit to the Secretary at War, and to Mr. Lewis, the Auditor of the Treasury-Chateaubriand's Account of his Interviews with General Washington-Theatre at Washington-Mr. Jonathan Elliot's Book-store-His Civility-Library of the House of Representatives-Dugald Stewart's Letter to Mr. Jefferson-Mr. Jefferson's Library-Destruction of the Library and Public Buildings at Washington by the British-Sir VOL. II.-2

George Cockburn-Details of the Devastation-Opposite Conduct of Louis the Fourteenth-Destruction of State Papers-Destruction of Mr. Gale's Printing Establishment by Sir George CockburnMeditated Revenge by the Americans-Newspaper called the Banner of the Constitution-Roman Catholic Seminary and Society of Nuns near Washington-One of Prince Hohenlohe's Miracles performed at Washington-Details-Patent Office at Washington-Settlement of American Blacks at Liberia-Colonization Society-Mr. Innes's Account of it-Mr. Clay's account of it-President Nott's Opinion that Slavery cannot longer exist in the United States-Canal between the Chesapeake and Ohio Rivers-Waiters in the Hotel at Washington-Men of Colour not to be trusted-Different Conduct of the White Servants in the United States-Anthracite Coal.

January and February, 1830.

On the 29th January, I sat out on a long projected expedition to Charleston, New-Orleans, the Mississippi and Ohio. My first day's journey by the stage took me to Frankford,a clean, well-situated village a few miles from Philadelphia, where I had the pleasure of staying a day or two with Colonel Burn, an American by birth, but who had been long in Britain, being possessed of landed property in Scotland. His manners and mode of living were as much British as American. He commanded the American cavalry in the last war; but had now retired, and lived very hospitably at Frankford. Colonel Burn was kind enough to give me a letter to a friend of his at Charleston, which was of great use to me. He mentioned to me, what I had never heard before, that Bonaparte had been prevented by force from finding his grave in the battle of Waterloo; and he mentioned, as his authority, General Barnard, now in the service of the United States, who was at Waterloo with Bonaparte, and who asserted positively that Bonaparte, as soon as he saw the guards repulsed, said, we shall find our graves here; but the other officers, surrounding him, carried him off. At Colonel Burn's house, I first tasted the terrapin,-a small land turtle, of which excellent soup is made. I also first saw here in perfection the canvass-back duck of the Potomac, which is reckoned, and I think justly, the greatest delicacy in the United States. It is considerably larger than our wild duck, and far more delicate in flavour. An epicure would be puzzled whether to give the preference to this bird or to Scotch grouse. The Americans eat the canvass duck with currant jelly, as if it were venison. I thought it better with our wild duck sauce, Port wine heated, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, &c. I had again an opportunity, while here, of seeing Philadelphia market. Meat of every kind was very plentiful, at an average of about twopence halfpenny a pound. The price of a very large wild

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