Imagens das páginas
PDF
ePub
[blocks in formation]

when handled exude a liquid resembling walnut juice, of a strong but not unpleasant odour. The Khamtees seemed to consider them a great delicacy when boiled, and for several days the odour of the beetles seemed to impregnate their bodies, to their intense satisfaction. Fortunately we had encountered a party of Degaroo Mishmees on a fishing expedition to the plains, and succeeded in getting a few dried fish from them; and these, with the remainder of the venison, afforded the last good meal we were to have for some time.

We had now arrived at the famous Bramakund, and I was greatly disappointed to find that my expectationsgathered from hearsay—of its scenic grandeur were not realized. I had pictured a gloomy gorge, from which I expected to see the Bramapootra pouring its waters into a large pool or lake. Instead of this, the Bramapootra river simply debouched from a low range of hills in a noisy turbulent stream, and turning sharp from the north flowed quietly eastwards. Its rocky banks were not two hundred feet in the perpendicular anywhere. The Bramakund or sacred spring-from which the neighbourhood takes its name-was nothing more than a tiny streamlet trickling down the precipitous cliff, and falling into a deep basin, formed by a point of rock, jutting out at right angles from the left bank of the river. In the basin were great numbers of large fish, which are fed by the Hindoo fakeers, who guard the sacred spring. Pilgrims from all parts of Assam and Bengal visit the Bramakund to bathe in its sacred waters, during the cold season, and every pilgrim so visiting the place feeds the

fish, which are held to be sacred, the Mishmees declaring that they are the spirits of departed fakeers.

After I had visited the spring, and seen all there was to be seen, I returned to my tent, which was pitched under the lee of a gigantic granite boulder. In the meantime I found a party of Degaroo Mishmees had arrived, the leader of whom had brought a message to Chowsam from Bowsong, the most powerful chief of the Meju Mishmees, to the effect that he had heard rumours of our intended visit, and desired to intimate that our presence would not be welcome in the Meju country. This was most unexpected, both by Chowsam and myself, who on conferring together decided to treat the message with polite indifference. After a little parley with the Mishmees, in which we conveyed our belief that Bowsong must have made a mistake, we gave his messengers some opium, and they joined our party, making merry until a late hour at night.

There are three tribes of Mishmees, known respectively as the Degaroo, Meju, and Chullah Cottah, or Crophaired Mishmees, so called from the habit of cropping their hair round the head so as to give them the appearance of wearing a mushroom-shaped hat. This tribe inhabits the hill country directly north of Sudiya, and extending to the frontiers of Thibet. They are exceedingly warlike and predatory, annually carrying fire and sword into the country of their neighbours, the Degaroo and Meju Mishmees, by whom they are both feared and detested-at one time they were such a trouble to the Indian Government that they were

The Mishmee Tribes.

181

forbidden to visit Sudiya or the plains, on pain of death. This stringent regulation has, however, been removed at the request of a deputation of the chiefs, who visited Sudiya and guaranteed the good behaviour of the tribe, if allowed to trade with the plains. For a year they have come down from the hills without indulging in any of their old propensities. When I was in Northern Assam, little was known of this tribe beyond the visits paid by a few traders to the annual fair at Sudiya. With Thibet they carry on a considerable traffic, exchanging Mishmee teta, a kind of febrifuge, and musk, for yaks, knives, spear-heads, iron cooking vessels, beads, and brass pipes of Chinese manufacture.

The Degaroos dwell south of the Chullah Cottahs, between the little river Khoondil and the line of the Bramapootra river. In dress, manners and customs, and appearance they are the same as the Mejus, who inhabit the country to the north-east of them, but their language is distinct from that of the latter, with whom they intermarry.

They are of small stature, few of the men exceeding five feet six; sturdy in physique, with unmistakeable Mongolian features, and light copper-coloured complexions.

Their dress merely consists of a sack-like garment, reaching from the neck to the bend of the knee, and made of a piece of cotton, or yak haircloth, doubled lengthwise, and sewn together down one side, with holes cut for the neck and arms. The garment, worn open down the front, forms the scantiest cover for their

body and limbs, while, from a piece of hide or cord. round the waist, an apron-like piece of cloth hangs down to the knee. Over this they wear a sporran, made of either bear or monkey skin, which serves as a pocket for flint and steel, &c. The hair is worn long, and twisted into a knot, secured on the top of the head by a wooden pin. The chiefs wear large fur caps, made of the skin of a little animal somewhat resembling a fox, peculiar to the Mishmee hills. As ornaments, the men wear rings of brass on their arms, and large discs of bamboo or silver for earrings, which are let into the lobe of the ear, which is split and greatly distended. Their weapons consist of bows and poisoned arrows; a staff, eight feet long, shod with a spear at one end, and a spike at the other, serves the double purposethe spear for the chase, and the spike for assisting them to climb their rugged mountains.

A small knife, attached to a green hide strap or belt, slung over the shoulder, hangs under the right arm. This belt, in the case of a chief, is ornamented with large brass studs, and shield-shaped pieces of brass, three inches in diameter. The most important weapon of a chief, next to the bow and arrow, is the long, keen-edged Thibetan knife, of which they are exceedingly proud. It is about three feet long, and of uniform width from hilt to point, but in point of usefulness it is far inferior to the Khamtee knife, worn by the majority of the men, and also by the chiefs when they are out on an expedition. A slave generally carries the Thibetan weapon, which is worn on all important occasions. All these

« AnteriorContinuar »