tions, as I gazed upon the amiable and lovely Queen. She is indeed worthy of the almost adoring affection her people have for her.

The Duchess of Sutherland was quite near me, and I could well imagine she had most justly been styled the "Queen of Beauty." Although now of wonderful "embonpoint," she is a magnificent woman. Her dress was exquisite. It was a silver moire antique, with a tunique (short dress) of brown crape, embroidered thickly with sparkling gems. The front of the corsage resembled a parterre of precious jewels, while multitudes of diamond pins, formed like stars, were gleaming in her fair hair. Her two daughters the Duchess of Argyle and Lady Constance Grosvenor, were with her. They are both exceedingly handsome, and were attired in superb dresses, with a profusion of diamonds.

The foreign Ministers and attachés were all in their national costume; that of the Persian Minister was absolutely blazing with jewels. The Turkish ambassador was a most agreeable man. With the Greek, Spanish, and Italian Ministers I had a very gay and interesting conversation. They were all well-informed and intellectual persons.

Our kind friend Mrs. Marlay (the mother of Lady John Manners) presented me to many noble lords and ladies, and pointed out a number of remarkable people, among them Lady Rockingham, (I believe that is her title now, she was the great actress Miss O'Niel;) she still has traces of beauty, although her hair is snowy white.

The Countess of Jersey, and her daughter, Lady Clementina Villars, quite charmed me by their cordial greeting, Lady Clementina was certainly the most beautiful woman in the brilliant assemblage, although many contended that the Duchess of Wellington (a very lovely woman) surpassed her in personal charms. However, Paris himself might have

HER MAJESTY IN THE DANCE.

37

been puzzled to determine to which he should award the apple. The Countess of Jersey is called the "queen of London fashion," and she wields her sceptre with an admirable grace.

The Duke of Wellington I recognized at a glance, from the remarkable nose of the family, which strikes the beholder so forcibly in the statue of the Iron Duke in Hyde Park.

Although trains were dispensed with, the dresses of the ladies were rich, splendid, and costly. All the treasures of the mines of Golconda appeared to have been yielded up to adorn their fair bosoms, and to glitter as coronets upon their brows. Emeralds, rubies, pearls" from Oman's green waters," opals, and sapphires, were wrought into garlands and bouquets, imitating flowers, and sparkling as though touched by the morning dew.

The supper was delicious; served up on sevres China, each plate so beautiful it seemed fit for a place in a painter's studio. The goblets of glass were exquisitely cut, and the gold spoons and forks perfectly superb. One end of the banquet saloon was occupied by the Royal Buffet, where gorgeous treasures of golden plate were glittering in amazing splendor. There was every imaginable variety of viands. and rich patés, rare tropical fruits from the Queen's conservatories, luscious grapes, peaches, and other fruits of the temperate zone; then, wines of the finest vintage from France, Italy, and the Rhine valley.

Her Majesty danced every quadrille with spirit and evident delight. She tripped gaily along with the joyous glee of a girl, and the simple, unaffected grace of a child. She looks exceedingly young. No one would suppose her to be the mother of eight children. Her partners in the dance were usually her royal visitors, although several times she

selected as such some noblemen of high rank. The Marquis of Granby was one of the persons thus honored.

About two o'clock in the morning the Queen bade adieu to her guests, passing between two living walls, which lined the picture-gallery. As in entering, she kindly bowed and smiled, as the great door, panelled with mirrors, closed upon her. Her sweet and genial manner was really charming, and a low murmur of praise and admiration was heard on every side. Her Majesty is truly an admirable womanly woman, or else she could not possess such an influence over the hearts of her people. She is at once their pride, their boast, and their example for all that is good and excellent in the various relations of life, as a wife, mother, and sovereign.

When Queen Victoria retired, one of the noblemen in waiting upon their Majesties most kindly became my guide around the sculpture and picture galleries, pointing out the fine paintings of St. Peter Lely, of Reynolds, Rembrandt, and Wilkie. He then conducted me to the landing of the grand stairway, where we stood some time looking down upon the scene below. There were hundreds and hundreds of ladies in bright crimson and blue cloaks waiting for their carriages, while near the door-way was a "band of yeomen" (the guard of honor) in their quaint costume of the time of Henry the Eighth. My agreeable chevalier presented me to many pleasant persons, and I was delighted with the cordial way in which they greeted me. One gallant old general, who had served long, and won many battles in India, pleased me especially. Although an aged man, he had all the enthusi asm of a young soldier. He spoke with warm admiration of our generals, Taylor and Scott, and of their glorious campaigns in Mexico. After talking awhile he invited me to go down to visit him at his country place, and we parted very earnest friends.

ETIQUETTE ON LEAVING THE PALACE.

"How noiseless falls the foot of Time,

That only treads on flowers."

39

Never did I realize so absolutely the truth of Shenstone's words, as when our courteous friends, Mr. Ingersoll and Col. Lawrence, came to seek me, and said it was nearly five o'clock ! Then we were at least an hour, ready cloaked in the antechamber, ere we departed. From the outer gate to the door of this room, the names of princes, foreign ambassadors, and ministers, dukes, lords, and ladies, were called out in every variety of tone. "The Duchess of Sutherland is coming," in a weak treble-"The Duchess of Sutherland is coming," in a deep bass. Thus her name was repeated until she stepped into her coach, and another was drawn up, and the same etiquette gone through with. Our turn came at last, with the oft-repeated announcement of our progress to the outward world. Leaving the glare of the bright chandeliers, we sprang into our carriage.

It was a bright, delightful morning. Numerous birds were singing amid the thick foliage of the trees, rejoicing in the early sunlight. The smoothly-cut lawn around the palace was like a velvet carpet, and the flowers fresh from their dewy bath of the past night. The air was so delicious and invigorating, that we drove entirely around the Park, over Constitution Hill, and along Piccadilly, to my lodgings in Portman Square. I ran to my chamber. Octavia was already awake, eager to hear the description of the magnificent ball; but my weariness was so excessive, I fell asleep, with the words "glorious, enchanting," upon my lips.

The Queen's Ball! Like a beautiful picture, it shall hang within the brightest chamber of memory; and when troublous cares oppress me, I will summon that entrancing scene to the "mind's eye," and for a time forget them all.

CHAPTER VI.

July 3d. We went this morning (Sunday) to the Church of the Cru saders, to hear divine service. This is a very ancient edifice, near six hundred years old. In the time of Cromwell, the lofty dome and frescoed walls were covered with whitewash, to preserve them from the fanatics, it is supposed. Century after century passed away, until, by accident, a portion of the coating fell off, revealing the exquisite fresco. It has since been restored at an enormous expense, and now its fine mediæval decorations awaken the admiration of all beholders.

All the congregation joined in the responses, thus making the service exceedingly solemn and impressive. Encircled by an iron railing are the figures in bronze of the Knight Templars of Jerusalem. They are in complete armor, with shields, helmets, and spears, and are most interesting as works of art.

We dined at the villa of a distinguished artist at Old Brompton. The grounds were surrounded by a high wall, and are a portion of the farm of Oliver Cromwell. When we drove through the large gate, we found ourselves in a small forest of trees, amid which stands a cottage-house, and around it exquisite flowers and clustering vines. In a little dell, overshadowed by a great oak, is the spring, called to