state of tolerable preservation. The solitude of the shore is unbroken, save only by the murmurs of the sea, which here seems to feel all the indolence of the climate, and rolls in its sluggish billows upon the wreck of Roman luxury. In a retreat so absolutely enchanting, with high hills rising on one hand, and the hollow port described in the Odyssey, spreading on the other amidst scenery enriched by the prodigality of nature, and hallowed by the muse of Homer and Virgil and Horace, as well as associated with the name of Tully-my readers must indulge me in a little romance of feeling. Prompted by the pages of the ancient poets, fancy recalled the images of other ages, when old Ulysses, mooring his fleet in the bay, went on shore perhaps with his crew, to frolic with the peasant girls of Læstrygonia; or when at a subsequent period, the Orator of Rome, retiring to the classic shades of Formiæ, gave his attic nights to the pursuits of eloquence and philosophy. His vigils were scarcely protracted to a later hour than my own. The citron groves, peeping through the windows of my apartment, were the last to bid me good night, and the first to greet me on the morrow.

LETTER LXII.

OF

ROUTE FROM GAETA TO NAPLES-MINTURNÆ--RIVER LIRISCAPUA-AVERSA―ARRIVAL AT NAPLES-ASPECT THE CITY PRINCIPAL STREETS—SKETCH OF THE BAY, ISLANDS, SHORES, HARBOUR, AND OTHER OUTLINES-ROYAL GARDEN -TOMBS OF VIRGIL AND SANNAZARO.

May, 1826.-At 5 o'clock on the morning of the 10th, we resumed our journey towards Naples, passing through the large modern town of Mola di Gaeta, the filth and poverty of which present a perfect contrast to the rural charms of the Villa just left with regret. The country onward preserves its picturesque character, though in a less degree than the scenery already described. A ride of an hour brought us to the ruins of old Minturnæ, scattered over a green plain on the right bank of the Liris. In a field on the left of the road, are seen the remains of a Roman aqueduct, which extended from the brow of an neighbouring hill to the town, and supplied it with water. The walls of the amphitheatre, similar

in construction to others of the same age, are yet tolerably perfect. Minturnæ is associated with one of the most interesting events in the life of Caius Marius, who secreted himself in a neighbouring fen, till he was dragged from his lurking place by the partisans of Sylla. Here was the scene of his imprisonment and condemnation to death, when the sternness of his countenance disarmed the executioner, and he was permitted to escape hence to the shores of Africa, to muse upon the decline of his own fortunes amidst the ruins of Carthage.

The Liris, the liquid Liris, in name as smooth as its own unruffled current, has now assumed the semi-barbarous appellation of the Garigliano-a modern Shibboleth, which none but the Italians can "frame to pronounce ;" and if exactness of orthoepy were made the criterion, few strangers would be permitted to pass the bridge of boats, which links together by a most fragile chain the ancient kingdoms of Latium and Campania. The river itself is one of the largest and finest we have found in Italy. It is nearly as broad as the Tiber, within the walls of Rome, but differs entirely in character, having none of the turbulence and impetuosity of the latter. The banks are shaded with poplars and elms, and bordered by a broad, fertile, flowery plain, which the road traverses between Garigliano, and St. Agatha. An insulated, shattered tower, overhanging the stream, and half concealed by the foliage, forms a most picturesque object in the landscape. In crossing this delicious vale, we met a regiment of Austrian cavalry, riding full tilt, and raising a glorious dust. They were on their way to Terracina, to meet Leopold the brother of the king of Naples, and to escort him to town, on his return from the north of Europe. When the corps

was first descried at a distance, with nodding plumes and armour glittering in the sun, the spectacle was quite martial, leaving the mind free to fancy it a squadron of Numidian horse, from the Camp of Hannibal at Capua!

The environs of St. Agatha are beautiful, but the village is mean and miserable. A stately bridge connects it with Sessa, (the ancient Suessa,) a handsome town on the opposite side of the river. Here the traveller again meets the Appian Way, which he had deserted at Minturnæ. Passing a finely wooded country, tolerably well cultivated, rural in its aspect, covered with vineyards, fields of corn, and pastures, we crossed the bridge of Volturno, and entered Capua at 11

o'clock. The river, which is nearly as large as the Tiber, and quite as turbid, winds with a good deal of majesty under the very walls of the town. A large fortress was observed on the right bank, garrisoned by a solitary soldier, who was standing sentinel upon the parapet. This circumstance is the more remarkable, as the city is now as full of Austrian troops as it ever was with the legions of Hannibal. Every other person you meet wears a military dress, and the rest, as a consequence, are beggars.

While our horses were resting at the hotel, we walked to the cathedral and one or two other churches, for the purpose of examining some Roman antiquities, unworthy of notice; but the streets were so thronged with mendicants, that a retreat was effected as soon possible. Some of the miserable beings who beset us with their importunities were deformed, and others diseased; and by way of enforcing their claims to charity, they have a fashion of thrusting their withered limbs into the traveller's face, compelling him to witness objects that sicken and disgust. Such occurrences are so frequent as to form a serious drawback upon the comforts of a person of any feeling. Capua seems to be the head quarters of paupers, who are far more numerous in the Neapolitan dominions, than in any other part of Italy; and of all the towns I have ever visited, this is the most wretched. The population is reduced to seven thousand, and seems to be wasting away by absolute starvation. We went through the form of taking breakfast at the hotel; but if Hannibal and his army had found as hard fare as crowned our table, they would never have been corrupted by the luxuries of the ancient capital of Campania !

The road between Capua and Naples, a distance of fifteen miles, is uniform and presents few objects to interest the traveller. It leads in nearly a direct line over an extensive plain, possessing a light soil, covered with poplars, and shaded with vines hanging in festoons from tree to tree, like the vineyards in the vale of the Arno. The intermediate spaces are appropriated to the culture of grain, flax, hemp, lupins, and a variety of vegetables. There are no houses scattered over the landscape, and nothing to give it life and animation. Midway is the large and populous town of Aversa, which is another Capua in the character of its idle, half-naked, and starving inhabitants--actually starving in the midst of a country on which nature has lavished her bounties! The yells of beggars, outrunning the horses, compelled us again to close the win

dows of the coach, and escape as soon as possible from misery, which could not be relieved.

Just before reaching Naples, a long vista in the road opens upon Mount Vesuvius and the hills beyond the bay; but the view is not commanding, disclosing nothing of the town. A pretty Doric temple, one story high, stands upon the verge of the plain. Making a short turn to the right, we descended a steep declivity into the great avenue of the city with as much rapidity, as the custom-house officers and sentinels who guarded the entrance would permit. Our coach was stopped at least half a dozen times, and a fee exacted by each of the placemen. Weary of so much delay and extortion, we at length directed the postillion to go on, and leave the authorities of his majesty to send for us if they = chose. Frequent impositions of this kind are practised upon =the traveller.

Our entrance into Naples, at 5 o'clock on a pleasant afternoon, the hour of the greatest activity and bustle, was calculated to give us a very favourable impression of the extent, architectural magnificence, and population of the city. The avenue, in approaching from Rome, terminates in the Strada Nuova, extending something like a mile in a right line, of about twice the width of Broadway, and bordered on both sides with handsome buildings, some of which are colossal in their dimensions. Among these are the Albergo de' Poveri, (the Asylum of the poor,) about two thousand feet in length, four stories high besides the attic, presenting a front highly embellished with Ionic pillars; and farther on, the Studii Pubblici, (the Royal Academy of Arts,) of nearly the same dimensions. From the latter building the Toledo, the principal street in Naples, corresponding with the Corso at Rome, opens at right angles with the Strada Nuova, and extends another mile in a right line to the quay. It is paved with flags like Florence, and bordered by palaces, churches, and other buildings, four, five, and even six stories high, with balconies or piazzas in front, and with terraced roofs. Near the foot of it, on the left, stands the King's Palace, and on the opposite side of the square, that of the Prince Leopold and the church of St. Francis,* not yet completed. From

*This enormous pile, with a circular portico in front, and a dome in imitation of St. Peter's, was begun by the late King, in consequence of a vow made during his exile by the French, that if he was restored to his throne, he would erect a temple to the Virgin or St. Francis.

the Toledo, we made another turn through the street, or more properly quay of St Lucia, winding round a bold point of t rocks and bringing us in full view of the faubourg of the Chiaia, or west end of the town.

I have been more particular in tracing this route, because it leads through nearly all the magnificence which Naples can boast, and will serve to fix certain localities, to which allusion will hereafter be made. In the whole of this distance of something more than two miles, the streets were literally thronged with carriages and pedestrians, exhibiting the style, costumes, and manners of the country. Such a crowd, so busy, noisy, bustling and gay, led us to suppose that the whole population were abroad, on some great festival. But subsequent observation satisfied us, that the Toledo at all times exhibits the same spectacle, which will not appear so strange, when it is considered that the city contains a population of 450,000, a considerable proportion of whom literally live and even sleep in the streets. The bustle of the multitude appeared the more striking to us by way of contrast, in coming from the comparatively unpeopled hills of Rome. A strongly marked difference in the character of the inhabitants of the two cities is observable at the first glance. The Neapolitans form collectively the meanest, dirtiest, and most degraded population in all Italy. Something like 50,000 lazzaroni, with naked bronze legs, coarse kilts, caps, and shirts with their bosoms open, constitute by no means the most abject portion of this moral chaos, where wretchedness and gaiety, poverty and splendour are all mingled together. Even the higher classes exhibit little of that personal beauty, taste in dress, and refinement of manners, which characterize the Romans. Although Naples is a commercial place, the shops of the Toledo make no show in comparison with those of London or Paris, or even with those of Leghorn and Florence. Such are a few of the leading features, which strike the traveller at his entrance into the third city in Europe, in point of magnitude.

Soon after our arrival, we took private lodgings on the Chiaia, the most fashionable part of the town. Our windows and the balconies in front of them look down upon the Royal Garden at our feet, and command a view of the whole bay of Naples, which has justly been extolled for its picturesque beauty. A general idea of its outlines may be conveyed in few words. It is of a semicircular form, sweeping