Imagens das páginas
PDF
ePub

the Forum and the Tiber, where all the Jews, to the number of eight thousand, are inhumanly shut up at night under lock and key, like so many cattle. They have here a synagogue, small but rich. The history and religion of the Israelites are illustrated in compartments of bas-relief on the upper part of the wall. The aged Jew who officiates in the temple, opened the Holy of Holies for our inspection. It is rich in embroidered silks and other ornaments. We saw many of the persecuted race. They have dark complexions, and the same contour of face, which marks this peculiar people the world over.

On the 26th, we descended the Tiber, through the whole extent of the city, in a row-boat, and landing at the ancient port, went thence to the Villa Mattei, on the Cælian Mount. This charming retreat is situated under the walls of Rome, and commands a fine view of the ruins of Caracalla's baths. A large tract of land in the vicinity belongs to the villa. The grounds are laid out with considerable taste, ornamented with trees, parterres, shady walks, statues, and a lofty Egyptian Obelisk.

In front of the church of Santa Maria della Navicella, we examined a model of a Roman Galley, sculptured in marble, which was presented as a votive offering to the shrine and gave name to the chapel. It is of large dimensions, and placed upon stocks, at considerable elevation from the ground. It possesses some interest both as a work of art, and still more as furnishing an illustration of the classics.

We continued our excursion hence to the church of St. Stephen in Rotondo, the skeleton of an ancient temple built by Vespasian. It is in a circular form, supported by double rows of antique columns. In compartments round the walls, the tortures of the early christians, from the reign of Nero downward, are minutely delineated, with references and explanatory inscriptions. The exhibition is horrid beyond description. Bodies are seen lacerated and mangled in the most shocking manner. Ingenuity seems to have been put to the rack, in devising the most exquisite modes of torture. Fire and sword, boiling caldrons, gridirons, and dens of wild beasts, are here portrayed to the life. While we were examining the church, the sound of revelry and loud laughter was heard in the cloisters of an adjoining convent. It proceeded from a society of monks, who were making themselves merry over their viands and wine. One of

[ocr errors]

the attendants spread a table for us, in an apartment of the old monastery, and brought us an excellent kind of small fish from the Tiber, with a glass of Orvietto. :

Pursuing our ramble over the Cælian Mount, we passed under the ancient arch of Dolabella, and visited the church of St. Gregory, for the purpose of examining the rival frescos of Guido and Domenichino. The chapel contains a statue of St. Gregory by Michael Angelo. It is worthy of his chisel. A curious Latin inscription states, that while the patron saint was entertaining twelve pilgrims at his table, a thirteenth guest appeared among them, who proved to be an angel. Whether he ate and drank with the rest, the legend saith not.

On the 28th, Signor Trentanove called and accompanied us to the Studio of the Cavalier Landi, a living painter of much eminence. His principal work is the Triumph of Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots. The scene is laid at Paris. Lord Darnley is a prominent person upon the canvass, but badly executed. The best figure is a Highland Soldier, in his national costume. A call was also made at the Studio of Cavaliere, a young artist of great promise. Among other sights, I this afternoon saw the original of Canova's Venus, at a window across a narrow street. She thrust out her head and rested sometime, as if on purpose to show her pretty face, her snowy neck, and alabaster arms.

LETTER LXXVIII.

ROME CONCLUDED-FESTIVAL OF ST. PETER-ILLUMINATION OF HIS CHURCH-FIREWORKS OF ST. ANGELO--MONTE CAVALLO--TEMPLE OF THE SUN--A SUMMER DAY IN ROME--MAL'ARIA--CEREMONY OF TAKING THE VEIL--THEATRES--ACADEMY OF ST. LUKE--SKULL OF RAPHAEL--CELEBRATION OF THE FOURTH OF JULY--AMERICAN CONSUL.

June-July, 1826.-In the evening of the 28th we accompanied Signor Trentanove to the Princess Gabrielli's, to witness the illumination of St. Peter's. A first view was obtained in crossing the bridge of St. Angelo. The whole front and dome of the church were brilliantly lighted up, the lamps being disposed in fanciful shapes, and investing the

the Forum and the Tiber, where all the Jews, to the number of eight thousand, are inhumanly shut up at night under lock and key, like so many cattle. They have here a synagogue, small but rich. The history and religion of the Israelites are illustrated in compartments of bas-relief on the upper part of the wall. The aged Jew who officiates in the temple, opened the Holy of Holies for our inspection. It is rich in embroidered silks and other ornaments. We saw many of the persecuted race. They have dark complexions, and the same contour of face, which marks this peculiar people the world over.

[ocr errors]

On the 26th, we descended the Tiber, through the whole extent of the city, in a row-boat, and landing at the ancient port, went thence to the Villa Mattei, on the Cælian Mount. This charming retreat is situated under the walls of Rome, and commands a fine view of the ruins of Caracalla's baths. A large tract of land in the vicinity belongs to the villa. The grounds are laid out with considerable taste, ornamented with trees, parterres, shady walks, statues, and a lofty Egyp tian Obelisk.

[ocr errors]

In front of the church of Santa Maria della Navicella, we examined a model of a Roman Galley, sculptured in marble, which was presented as a votive offering to the shrine and gave name to the chapel. It is of large dimensions, and pla ced upon stocks, at considerable elevation from the ground. It possesses some interest both as a work of art, and still more as furnishing an illustration of the classics.

We continued our excursion hence to the church of St. Stephen in Rotondo, the skeleton of an ancient temple built by Vespasian. It is in a circular form, supported by double rows of antique columns. In compartments round the walls, the tortures of the early christians, from the reign of Nero downward, are minutely delineated, with references and explanatory inscriptions. The exhibition is horrid be yond description. Bodies are seen lacerated and mangled in the most shocking manner. Ingenuity seems to have been put to the rack, in devising the most exquisite modes of torture. Fire and sword, boiling caldrons, gridirons, and dens of wild beasts, are here portrayed to the life. While we were examining the church, the sound of revelry and loud laughter was heard in the cloisters of an adjoining convent. It proceeded from a society of monks, who were ma king themselves merry over their viands and wine. One of

the attendants spread a table for us, in an apartment of the old monastery, and brought us an excellent kind of small fish from the Tiber, with a glass of Orvietto.

Pursuing our ramble over the Cælian Mount, we passed under the ancient arch of Dolabella, and visited the church of St. Gregory, for the purpose of examining the rival frescos of Guido and Domenichino. The chapel contains a statue of St. Gregory by Michael Angelo. It is worthy of his chisel. A curious Latin inscription states, that while the patron saint was entertaining twelve pilgrims at his table, 1 thirteenth guest appeared among them, who proved to be an angel. Whether he ate and drank with the rest, the le

gend saith not.

On the 28th, Signor Trentanove called and accompanied us to the Studio of the Cavalier Landi, a living painter of much eminence. His principal work is the Triumph of Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots. The scene is laid at Paris. Lord Darnley is a prominent person upon the canvass, but badly executed. The best figure is a Highland Soldier, in his national costume. A call was also made at the Studio of Cavaliere, a young artist of great promise. Among other sights, I this afternoon saw the original of Canova's Venus, at a window across a narrow street. She thrust out her head and rested sometime, as if on purpose to show her pretty face, her snowy neck, and alabaster arms.

LETTER LXXVIII.

ROME CONCLUDED-FESTIVAL OF ST. PETER-ILLUMINATION OF HIS CHURCH-FIREWORKS OF ST. ANGELO-MONTE CAVALLO--TEMPLE OF THE SUN--A SUMMER DAY IN ROME-MAL'ARIA--CEREMONY OF TAKING THE VEIL-THEATRES--ACADEMY OF ST. LUKE--SKULL OF RAPHAEL--CELEBRATION OF THE FOURTH OF JULY-AMERICAN CONSUL.

June-July, 1826.-In the evening of the 28th we accompanied Signor Trentanove to the Princess Gabrielli's, to witness the illumination of St. Peter's. A first view was obtained in crossing the bridge of St. Angelo. The whole front and dome of the church were brilliantly lighted up, the lamps being disposed in fanciful shapes, and investing the

proud pile in a golden hue. Pursuing our ride through the principal streets, already thronged with the congregated city, we climbed the steep ascent of Mount Janiculum, on the brow of which the Villa Gabrielli is situated, commanding a full view of Rome spreading beneath. The spacious grounds are tastefully laid out, intersected by walks and avenues, shaded with a profusion of trees, and embellished with the works of art. It is one of the finest situations in the environs of Rome. The palace is large, stately, and elegant. We were ushered into the drawing-room and presented to the Prince and Princess. She is a tall genteel woman, the daughter of Lucien Bonaparte. She is extremely polished in her manners, affable, and agreeable. It is said the King of Spain wished to marry her; but she refused the offer. Some one told her, that the contemplated marriage was a measure of state policy, and that her refusal would give offence to Napoleon, her uncle, To which she replied, that "she did not fear whom she did not love"-an answer worthy of a Roman lady, in the days of the Republic. The Prince is a silent man, who kept his seat most of the evening, and said little to any one, leaving the entertainment of the party to his better half. We were charmed with the simplicity and ease which prevail in this family, and with the literary taste which the Princess has inherited from her father. The tables in the several apartments were covered with books, as well as with journals, in Italian, French, and English. Many of the Roman nobility were present, among whom were a Marquis, a Count and his charming Countess, who is young, handsome, and extremely agreeable. I was as much delighted with her conversation and frankness of manners, as with her personal accomplishments. Several other titled ladies were of the party; as also a Cardinal and several ecclesiastical dignitaries in full dress.

At 9 o'clock the attention of every one was attracted to St. Peter's, which was lighted up with larger and more brilliant lamps. The blaze was communicated with the rapidity of a flash of lightning, and in an instant the whole exterior of the immense fabric was enveloped in a sheet of the most dazzling effulgence. It was indeed a brilliant and beautiful spectacle. There is great risk in making the preparations for these illuminations, as it is necessary to descend by ropes to every part of the walls and dome. Hundreds have been killed, and the service is reckoned so dangerous, that the

« AnteriorContinuar »