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something more of Tuscany, than a short visit had permitted. Through the kind offices of the American Consul, who did every thing to render our stay in his native city both useful and agreeable, private lodgings were obtained at moderate prices, in a healthy and eligible situation. My window almost overhung the Arno, commanding a full view of its = splendid quays and bridges, of the town, and the distant hills. The society of a pleasant family, and a circle of estimable =friends, contributed largely to the pleasures, which a temporary residence in the Tuscan capital afforded.

A day or two after our arrival, there was a great parade at the Cascine. An aeronaut had given public notice, that at 5 o'clock in the afternoon he would ascend in a balloon from the bank of the Arno. The whole city assembled to witness the spectacle. All the bridges, heights, and house-tops were thronged with Florentine beauty. The Grand Duke was the patron of the show, and promised the adventurer a premium of $500, if he should descend on any part of his grounds. His Highness with his family and suite appeared among the multitude on this occasion. A sumptuous pavilion hung with crimson, had been purposely fitted up for his accommodation. The nobility were all out with their splendid equipages, reviving an image of the Corso at Rome. We witnessed a fine exhibition of style, both high and low. The gentry sat in their carriages, and the pedestrians stood upon their feet till dark, waiting with breathless anxiety, and expecting every moment to see the aerial navigator mount to the skies. He at length came forward with an apology, stating that his balloon could not be inflated. In a few days the notice was repeated, and the congregated city experienced another disappointment. The Grand Duke was so enraged at a second failure, after sitting the whole afternoon in his pavilion, that he directed two of the chemists to be imprisoned, and a new set to be introduced to the blow-pipes and crucibles. Although operations were continued daily, the show had not taken place when I left town.

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We found the general aspect of Florence much less agreeable in mid-summer, than it was at our first visit in April. Excellent as its pavements are, and numerous and stately as are its palaces, it cannot be called a neat or cleanly city. The confined and disagreeable air, drives the people from their houses to the public squares and the bridges of the Arno, in the evening, where they remain till midnight. Seats extend

on both sides of the Ponte Santa Trinita from end to end, which at night are occupied by ladies, who sit motionless for hours, to catch a breeze from the river. When the moon is up and bright, so many white robes, and such a gallery of Florentine faces, form a novel and brilliant spectacle.

Another place of refuge from the heat of the city and the confinement of dwelling-houses, is the public square in front of the Cathedral. Here is a celebrated coffee-house, called by way of emphasis the Bottegone, where half of Florence, from the nobility downward, may be seen collected every evening, to eat ice-creams. Not only are all the saloons filled, but crowds are seated in chairs on the pavement at the door; while others sit in their coaches, sending in their servants for refreshments. At a neighbouring coffee-house they call for orgeat. The proprietor informed me, that he has often sold twenty barrels in a day.

From the Cathedral a street leads to the square of the Grand Duke, which at particular hours is so thronged, that a passage can scarcely be effected. On Sunday, from 12 till 2 o'clock, the Florentine ladies of the higher classes make it an invariable rule to resort thither, and appear on 'Change in full dresses, with as much regularity as merchants. They walk back and forth for the distance of a hundred rods, to gaze, and be gazed at. The custom is as ridiculous as it is novel; and after meeting the same faces, in a few turns, the stranger begins to feel ashamed of such folly, and bolts the

course.

I have described some of the pursuits and amusements, of which the Grand Duke declared himself the patron, and which occupied his attention day after day. Another pageant will still more forcibly illustrate the character of the sovereign and the nature of his cares. It was proclaimed, that on the afternoon of the 30th there would be a great horse-race of a peculiar character. We followed the multitude to see the show. The scene was laid in Florence, on the right bank of the Arno. A course had been prepared at a great expense, by strewing with sand or macadamizing a line of streets, leading from the Cascine to the Roman gate. For the whole of this distance, terraces, balconies, windows, and side-walks were thronged with people, while the middle of the street, till the race commenced, presented an unbroken chain of carriages, filled with the court of Tuscany, foreign ministers, public functionaries of all descriptions, the nobility and gentry

in their richest dresses, with chasseurs and footmen without number. The fronts of the houses were hung with banners of crimson and gold. In many places along the way, temporary galleries, like the benches of an amphitheatre, were erected, and tickets of admission regularly sold, as at the doors of a play-house. These seats were all full at an early hour.

The Grand Duke and his family appeared among the mul titude, in a chariot drawn by six proud steeds, richly caparisoned with glittering harnesses and gorgeous ornaments, vying with the liveries of his retinue. A pavilion had been purposely prepared for him at the corner of two of the streets, in a conspicuous situation, near the starting-post. Here he was seen in the midst of his courtiers, canopied by crimson and purple. Crowds pressed as near as they could, to catch a glimpse of the face, and bask in the smile of the august sovereign. Round the pavilion a regiment of soldiers was stationed, accompanied by a fine military band, who played some of the national airs, which used to animate the old republicans on to battle.

At length the signal was given, and the four race-horses were brought upon the course, without riders, saddle or bridle. They were girt with belts, bearing the numbers one, two, three, and four. Spurs were attached to their sides in such a way, that the faster the poor animals ran, the more their bleeding flanks were lacerated. So ingenious is man in devices of cruelty! The mechanic who invented this species of torture, probably received a premium as liberal, as was offered to the aeronaut, for risking his neck to amuse others. But the bugle sounds, and clear the course! is the cry. Napoleon's exhortation might with propriety have been proclaimed-" save himself who can!" The horses were let loose in the midst of such a multitude, and left the goal like shot, goaded on by the patent spurs. A passage was cleared for them by a retreat of the crowd, sometimes but a few paces in advance. Fortunately no one was run over on this occasion; but at a similar celebration, on St. John's Day, in June last, six persons were killed. His Highness has lost more subjects in these sports, than he ever lost in battle, though he holds the rank of General in the Austrian service, At the end of the course the steeds are caught, like pigeons, in a sheet of canvass. The Grand Duke receives intelligence by express, which horse has won; and he

communicates the important tidings by message, in the form of hand-bills, thrown in a shower from his pavilion like the Pope's benedictions, among the gaping multitude below. Such is the finale of this grand spectacle.

LETTER LXXX.

FLORENCE CONTINUED-PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY OF TUSCANY

PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS-RELIGIOUS

SAINT-THEATRES--OPERA-THE

PROCESSIONS-A LIVING
GOLDONI--ACADEMY OF

FINE ARTS--READING-ROOM--ITALIAN NEWSPAPERS.

July, 1826.-I made inquiry into the state of productive industry in Tuscany, and obtained information more in detail, than can here be given without converting a brief sketch into a dissertation on statistics and political economy. The two most prominent branches of manufactures are silks and straw hats. It is estimated, that about 100,000 persons are employed in these two kinds of fabrics. Both are on the decline, from causes already assigned, from the competitions of other nations, and from recent changes in the commercial world. The exportation of silks to Cyprus, Damascus, and other parts of the Levant, formerly so extensive and profitable to Tuscany, has been almost entirely suspended by the war between the Turks and the Greeks, and the monopoli. zing traffic of the French. Less quantities are also sent to Germany. The English have never allowed the importation of any thing beyond the raw material, to supply their own manufactories. At present, therefore, the trade is confined chiefly to the United States, Portugal, and a few places in the north of Europe.

The public institutions of Florence are numerous; but they do not at present appear to possess much activity, or to be very productive of benefits to the country. I was informed, that in many instances they are badly managed, being committed to the charge of men, who are either not qualified for the places they hold, or who prefer their own ease and interest to the public good. Ecclesiastics have a controlling influence in every department of society. The education of boys is entrusted to priests and monks; and females are buried in nunneries, till they are of age.

Religious processions take place almost daily. We attended several. The first was the Feast of the Madonna del Carmine. All the city rallied as usual. But the greatest show took place on another day, I forget in honour of what Madonna or Saint, so numerous are they in Florence. The scene was laid in the great avenue leading from the Cascine, or in other words on the race-course; and the same set of decorations answered for both festivals. If possible, the priests drew together a greater concourse of people, than the Barbary steeds. Amphitheatric seats were again put in requisition. The procession did not move till dark; for the blaze of tapers and the glare of banners, as well as the solemn chant, produce a much finer effect at night. Crosses and crucifixes without number rose in a long line. At length came the grandest part of the spectacle. An image of the Madonna of the day, made of wax, as large as life, dressed in the richest Florentine silks, crowned with a diadem, loaded with a profusion of the most gorgeous ornaments, and seated under a golden canopy, was borne on the shoulders of four men, in as much state, as the Pope rode round the aisles of St. Peter's. As much reverence was also shown to the Virgin as to his Holiness; for the people all knelt and said an Ave Maria, as the pageant passed.

In walking along the Lung'Arno one evening with an Italian friend, we saw a living Saint, or at least he sustains that character in the eyes of the Florentines. He is a monk,

who dwells in a convent, near the gate leading to Leghorn. He was going towards his cell, and we pursued him, keeping a few paces in the rear, to elude observation. His march was arrested once in every two or three rods, by persons who darted out from the side-walks, and knelt in the street, to receive his benediction. He blessed them all. A sort of bustle took place in the act of genuflection, and words were muttered in a half whisper, which we could not understand. He often goes abroad on such excursions.

I have described the sacred spectacles of Florence; and let us now for a moment turn to the profane. The latter appeared to me as little calculated to exalt the national character as the former. There are several theatres in the city, two of which only were open at the time of our visit. Pergola or Opera-house is by far the most prominent. It is a large, splendid, and beautiful building, enriched with frescos and other decorations in good taste. The boxes, hung

The

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