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gloomy halls, which resemble the cloisters of a Campo Santo. There was not a soul in the house, except the Cus tode; and he looked more like a grave-digger than the guardian of a palace. He led us through a silent labyrinth of saloons, where the pupil of Raphael has indulged in the wildest freaks of his fancy, without adding in my opinion to his reputation. I was happy to be done with looking at his frisking satyrs and sprawling giants. The Dukes of Mantua have manifested consummate vanity, in putting their names, titles, and initials upon every thing about the palace, even to the fire-places.

On our return to the city, we called at a bookseller's shop, labelled in staring capitals with the words "Tipografia e Liberia Virgiliana.” Over the door was the head of the poet, encircled with the distich, " Mantua me genuit." Inquiry was made for a copy of Virgil's works; but strange as it may seem, none was to be had except a London edition. So true is it that a prophet is not without honour, save in his own country. The citizens of Mantua are nevertheless proud of their native bard in a certain way. Theatres, coffee-houses, and hotels bear his name; but no great monument has been erected worthy of his memory, and his poems are probably less read in the land of his nativity, than in the remotest sections of our own country.

The Cathedral presents a noble front of white marble. It was designed by Julio Romano, but not finished till after his death.

The architecture of the interior is simple, uniform, and beautiful, with the exception of tawdry gildings, which detract from its purity of taste. In the chapels are many good paintings; but our attention was attracted from the canvass, to the living picture of two fair Mantuese ladies, clad in the weeds of woe, who sauntered up the aisles and knelt side by side, before an altar hung with escutcheons, and with requests to pray for the souls of the dead. No artist ever painted a pieta more beautiful, devotional, or interesting.

After dinner we ascended to the top of the Torre della Gabbia, which rises to the height of perhaps two hundred and fifty feet above the palace of the same name, belonging to the Marquis Gonzaga, the last of the family. As he is a bachelor, this long line of noblemen is likely to become extinct in blood, as it has long been in renown. The tower is of brick, fifteen feet square, intended as an observatory. In

the balcony is a table with other furniture, for the accommodation of breakfast parties. We found here an excellent map of Mantua and its environs, which were now spread at our feet, and afforded a delightful view in the afternoon of a bright day. The Alps and the mountains of Verona are visible towards the north, and the Apennines to the south; but between them extend vast plains, on a dead level, and presenting an unbroken expanse of verdure. You look down upon every house in the city, which is five miles in circuit, and contains a population of little more than 20,000. It is completely insulated by the waters of the Mincio; though they flow on the western side through swamps of willow, so as to be invisible.

In ascending the tower, we saw the iron cage of the old Dukes, in which they used to confine their vanquished enemies for a show. The apartments of the palace contain a gallery of family portraits, and are furnished in handsome style, for the accommodation of the Viceroy, in his visits to the city.

The evening was passed at the new theatre, at the next door to our hotel. It is a pretty building, exhibiting four tiers of boxes, hung with rich tapestry, and brilliantly lighted, not only by chandeliers, but by circles of beauty. Above the stage is a rotatory clock, which gives the hour, and the subdivisions of every five minutes, in illuminated figures. It is an excellent idea, worthy of imitation in our own country. The play was a translation from the French, and afforded us little amusement.

We

Early next morning, we left Mantua for Cremona. A last and glorious view of the former city was obtained at sunrise, some miles beyond the gate. The road runs along the shore of the upper lake, which slumbers on a bed of osiers. took breakfast at Piadena. From the windows of the hotel, we witnessed the process of making wine. The grapes are thrown into the body of a water-tight cart, furnished with a spout at one end, and placed at a suitable inclination. Two men and a female were treading out the juice with their bare feet and legs, and looked like Bacchuses, stained with the purple must.

At 5 P. M. we passed the stately Ionic Gate of Cremona, and took lodgings for the night, at the Royal Hotel, near the Cathedral, and in the centre of the city. In ten or fifteen minutes after our arrival, we were upon the top of the Cam

panile, an insulated tower rising to the giddy height of five hundred feet above the Piazza del Duomo. It is the loftiest work of the kind in Italy. The elevation of the different stages is marked upon the walls of the interior. It is built of brick, and possesses none of the beauty of the belfries at Florence and Pisa. The cupola affords an extensive prospect of all the great features of Lombardy-the Alps and Apennines in the distance, boundless plains spreading like the sea itself beyond the reach of vision, and the Po winding in broad and silver mazes, through fields of exuberant fertility. This noble river flows under the very walls of Cremona. Its current is here much wider as well as more sluggish than at Ferrara, and is studded with numerous small islands, which add nothing to its grandeur or beauty. Fleets of boats cover its surface.

Cremona is five or six miles in circumference, encircled by lofty walls, and containing a population of 23,000. The streets are wide, and diverge like radii from the centre, leading to the gates, beyond which straight avenues and vistas of poplar may be traced to the distance of ten or twelve miles. Numerous churches, palaces, hospitals, theatres, and convents heave their domes above brick walls, and render the battlements of the city stately and imposing.

A spacious boulevard extends from the Milanese to the Mantuan gate. It was now covered with temporary shops, and filled with goods, brought hither for sale at the annual Fair, which had drawn together all the neighbouring country. We called for a few minutes at an amphitheatre, where a strolling company of rope-dancers were amusing a large audience. One of the principal performers, announced by the clown, was 66 una certa Signorina Inglese," who exhibited her feats of agility to the admiration of the Italians. We made an early retreat, and went thence to the opera. The theatre is a lofty and beautiful building, with an Ionic portico in front, finished in good taste. A genteel audience, comprising all the beauty of Cremona and its environs, assembled at the Fair, imparted additional splendour to the five tiers of boxes, richly gilt and curtained with crimson. The music of the orchestra was exquisite; but the actresses were ugly, in comparison with many of their auditors, and displayed much affectation in their style of singing.

LETTER LXXXIX.

ROUTE TO LODI-BANKS OF THE ADDA-DESCRIPTION OF THE BRIDGE-ARRIVAL AT MILAN---ASPECT OF THE CITY--SKETCH OF THE CATHEDRAL--ARCHITECTURE-VIEW FROM THE CUPOLA-INTERIOR-TRADITION OF ST. AMBROSETOMB OF SAN CARLO BORROMEO-CELEBRATION OF THE JUBILEE-PALACE OF THE VICEROY-REMINISCENCES OF NAPO

LEON.

September-October, 1826.-At 8 o'clock on the morning of the 29th, we set out for Milan, a distance of fifty-two miles. A severe battle was fought near the gate of Cremona, by the French under Napoleon. The walls, composed of pale brick, are fast reverting to their original elements. We entered upon a road so direct, that the eye could reach eight or ten miles ahead through rows of poplars, drawn up rank and file, with as much precision as an Austrian regiment. With all its fertility and exactness of tillage, Lombardy is a dull region to the traveller, in comparison with the romantic scenery in the south of Italy.

The

fields are intersected by ranges of willows, irrigated by canals, and appropriated to the culture of vines, Indian corn, wheat, rice, grass, and pasturage. Domestic animals are large and fat. Cows were frequently seen yoked in the

teams.

The

At Pizziglione we passed a strong fortress, defended by moats, draw-bridges, and triple walls. A low wooden bridge is here thrown across the Adda, which is a large and beautiful stream, rolling down with a strong bold current. complexion of the water is sea-green like the Mincio. the right bank is a long range of barracks, for the accommodation of the garrison upon the opposite shore.

On

At 5 P. M. we reached Lodi, and after securing lodgings for the night, hurried off to the Bridge over the Adda, the scene of the celebrated conflict between the French and Austrians. It is in the eastern part of the town, approached through a handsome gate, which bears the name of the river. The structure is of wood, built on piles, eight or ten feet

panile, an insulated tower rising to the giddy height of five hundred feet above the Piazza del Duomo. It is the loftiest work of the kind in Italy. The elevation of the different stages is marked upon the walls of the interior. It is built of brick, and possesses none of the beauty of the belfries at Florence and Pisa. The cupola affords an extensive prospect of all the great features of Lombardy-the Alps and Apennines in the distance, boundless plains spreading like the sea itself beyond the reach of vision, and the Po winding in broad and silver mazes, through fields of exuberant fertility. This noble river flows under the very walls of Cremona. Its current is here much wider as well as more sluggish than at Ferrara, and is studded with numerous small islands, which add nothing to its grandeur or beauty. Fleets of boats cover its surface.

Cremona is five or six miles in circumference, encircled by lofty walls, and containing a population of 23,000. The streets are wide, and diverge like radii from the centre, leading to the gates, beyond which straight avenues and vistas of poplar may be traced to the distance of ten or twelve miles. Numerous churches, palaces, hospitals, theatres, and convents heave their domes above brick walls, and render the battlements of the city stately and imposing.

A spacious boulevard extends from the Milanese to the Mantuan gate. It was now covered with temporary shops, and filled with goods, brought hither for sale at the annual Fair, which had drawn together all the neighbouring country. We called for a few minutes at an amphitheatre, where a strolling company of rope-dancers were amusing a large audience. One of the principal performers, announced by the clown, was 66 una certa Signorina Inglese," who exhibited her feats of agility to the admiration of the Italians. We made an early retreat, and went thence to the opera. The theatre is a lofty and beautiful building, with an İonic portico in front, finished in good taste. A genteel audience, comprising all the beauty of Cremona and its environs, assembled at the Fair, imparted additional splendour to the five tiers of boxes, richly gilt and curtained with crimson. The music of the orchestra was exquisite; but the actresses were ugly, in comparison with many of their auditors, and displayed much affectation in their style of singing.

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