sitive repulsion and hostility of feeling between some of the Cantons, in consequence of a difference in religion. Half of them are Catholics, and the rest Protestants, who in Europe can no more mingle than oil and water. To all appearances, elements thus radically discordant will preclude, for a long course of years at least, any thing like national views, = and the establishment of a confederacy similar to our own, I even if the Holy Alliance should tolerate the existence of free principles.

Our next call was at the Cathedral, which is a stately and handsome pile of Gothic architecture. The interior is plain, but neat and commodious, suited to the worship of a people, whose religion is addressed to the ear, and not to the eye. Most of the inhabitants of Geneva are protestants. The A number of Catholics does not exceed two or three thousand; about one tenth of the population of the city. Among the monuments is a lofty tomb in memory of a brother to Henry III. of France. We inquired for that of Calvin. The sexton informed us, that he made a special request to be buried in the public cemetery, and that no sepulchral honours should be paid to his dust. A visit was made to a building, at the corner of two streets, from the window of which he first proclaimed the doctrines of the Reformation; and also to the house, in which he died.

From the tower of the Cathedral, which is very lofty and arduous of ascent, we had a perfect view of the city. It covers little ground, is extremely compact, and strongly fortified. The Rhone divides it into unequal portions, that on the southern bank being much the most extensive and populous. Few places can be compared with Geneva in eligibility of position, in purity of streams, serenity of skies, and fertility of the adjacent country. Such is the salubrity of the noble river, which rolls beneath the walls, that its waters are raised by ponderous machinery, moved by its own current, for the supply of the city.

The Museum is an extensive, valuable, and interesting establishment. Its cabinets of natural history, its collections of minerals, organic remains, reptiles, insects, fishes, birds, and quadrupeds, are extremely rich, and arranged with the utmost scientific precision. Not a link is wanting or out of its place, in the great chain of being. The endless varieties of the butterfly, classically designated and tastefully disposed, particularly arrested my attention. Among the rarer

animals, is a species of the Capra Ibex, which inhabits the highest peaks of Mont Blanc, and is seen coursing its glaciers. Near it is an image of its bleak locality, an accurate representation of the mountain itself, with the delineation of the track pursued in reaching the summit. Here also is a

model of the Lake of Geneva, with all the varieties of the finny tribes, that inhabit its waters. Some of the trout weigh forty pounds. The Genevese employ, for the illustration of science, collections of precious stones, such as the Italians use for finger-rings, pendants, and the decorations of their altars. All the articles in the Museum were the voluntary contributions of individuals. Among the principal donors, are Lady Huntley and the Neckers. names of two of the latter, sons of the great financier, were observed in the list of representatives, posted up in the hall of the Hotel de Ville.

The

We had a fine ramble through the Botanic Garden, which lies under the south-western walls of the city, upon the borders of a luxuriant vale, spreading thence to the banks of the Arve. It is skirted on one side by a beautiful promenade, overhung by ranges of stately elms. On the other side, rise the beetling ramparts of the old city, which is physically as well as morally "set upon an hill." At one end of the garden, is the splendid seat of Mr. Aynard, a distinguished friend of the Greeks. Besides his liberal contributions, in aid of the cause of freedom, and the emancipation of a suffering people, his wealth has enabled him to expend three millions of francs, in the construction and embellishment of his chateau. It has a terraced roof, and is neatly adorned with Ionic columns; but the exterior does not account for such an enormous sum.

In the compartments and classifications of the Garden, the same scientific exactness is observable, as in the arrangement of the Museum, though I should think the botanical collections much less extensive and complete, than the other provinces in the kingdoms of nature. The gates are always open to the public, and the Genevese resort hither for exercise and recreation. While reposing in the alcoves of this charming retreat, we overheard a rehearsal in a neighbouring theatre, and were not a little surprised to learn, in this Protestant and Calvinistic city, that the play was in preparation for the Sunday evening following. The ascendancy of French customs and manners has probably led to this seem

g inconsistency in the character of an austere and rigid eople.

From the Botanic Garden, we strolled along the promede, to the southern walls of the town, where there are very rong bulwarks for its defence. A wire bridge, almost as

elicate and fragile as the web of Ariadne, is stretched across e deep moat. Beneath the ramparts are spacious cells, roof against cannon shot and shells, with sky-lights set in e green sod above. They are designed as a safe retreat ›r the inhabitants, in case of a siege or assault of the town. 'he Observatory stands on an eminence, just beyond the oat, commanding a full view of all the glorious scenery in le vicinity of Geneva. A good set of glasses, and other stronomical instruments, lend all the factitious aid required y the eye, in its glances through the pure heavens of witzerland.

In this quarter of the city is the old College, which was ounded by John Calvin, and is still kept up much in the same style he left it. The boys are divided into nine classes, rising n regular gradation according to their attainments. All the

ranches of a good education are here taught. The number of professors is between twenty and thirty. Our visit happened during the vacation; and neither master nor pupil was to be seen. No opportunity was afforded of examining the course of studies, or the discipline of the school; but its reputation is so well sustained, as to continue to attract students from all parts of the world. An intelligent lady, the wife of one of the officers, conducted us through the library, which contains 60,000 volumes, with many rare and valuable manuscripts. Among the number are all the sermons of Calvin, and the writings of other reformers. Their likenesses, and the portraits of many distinguished men, adorn the halls. Lord Chesterfield appears to be the presiding genius, perhaps as a model of manners to the students. The furniture of the College is remarkably plain. Geneva has one or two free schools in vigorous operation; and in no city are the advantages of education more fully enjoyed, or more sedulously improved..

We visited the principal Hospital. It is a noble institution, which has been productive of much active benevolence. Its wards are as neat and comfortable, as the chambers of a private dwelling. The bedsteads are of iron, in the French style. In the small chapel, service is occasionally performed

in English, to accommodate emigrants resident in the city. One wing of the Hospital is appropriated to foundlings. Its spacious rooms had not at the time of our visit a single inmate. The average number does not exceed eight or ten a year a fact strongly illustrative of the morals of the Genevese.

Our friends took us to the Athenæum. It is very much upon the plan of the Cercle des Phoceens at Marseilles. The apartments are spacious, neatly furnished, and supplied with all the appurtenances of such an establishment. Its code of by-laws is more severe than the creed of Calvin. A person is not allowed to walk, except upon tip-toe, nor to whis per above his breath. I observed among the books upon the tables, the North American Review, and other publications from the United States.

At evening we strolled across the Rhone, to a charming promenade on its right bank, to see another bright sun throw its last beams upon the snows of Mont Blanc. We here saw a panorama of the whole of Switzerland, in which the relative altitudes of the mountains and the dimensions of the lake, are accurately preserved. It is sixty feet square. Every village and hamlet, with the paths connecting them, are laid down. By the magic of the show-man's long wand, we were transported in less than an hour to every part of the country; crossing its beautiful waters, climbing its loftiest glaciers, and descending into its deepest vales.

In this excursion, we visited the old house, in which Jean Jacques Rousseau was born. It is a shattered, mean building, standing on an obscure street. Such is its decrepitude, that props are necessary to prevent it from falling. The front bears the following inscription:

"Ici fu né J. J. Rousseau, en 1712.”

Brief as it is, no other was needed. The chamber of his nativity is on the second floor, with two small old-fashioned windows in front. It is of the humblest kind, corresponding with the obscurity of his birth. Such was the cradle of a man, who shook thrones and empires by the influence of his pen.

Our last afternoon at Geneva was occupied in an excursion, with our friends, to the junction of the Rhone and Arve, several miles below the city. The latter torrent flows through

the vale of Chamouni, and drains the glaciers of Mont Blanc. It is of course an irregular and furious stream. Its waters are turbid, and of a much lighter complexion than those, with which, they here mingle. Two separate currents are distinguishable for some distance below the junction. The Rhone hugs the lofty and romantic cliffs, which beetle above his green waves, and appears to scorn a tribute, though it - comes from the monarch of the Alps.

At 4 o'clock on the morning of the 21st, we took our seats in the Diligence for Paris. We pursued the shore of the Lake to Rolle, and thence began to climb the hills of the Pays de Vaud. The route traverses a rough country; and the morning was so thick, even after daylight, as to circumscribe our horizon to narrow limits. The ascent of the Jura

is extremely arduous. All the passengers were obliged to walk for miles. This long range of mountains does not exceed three or four thousand feet in height, covered with deep forests, which had now assumed the rich and varied hues of autumn. The rocks are secondary, with an intermixture of loose fragments of granite, which do not appear from their localities to be natives of the ridge, but to have been thrown hither, in some of the great revolutions of nature.

Our zig-zag progress up the acclivities was slow, and the summit was not reached till noon. From the topmost crags, on the right of the road, we had a last and enchanting view of Mont Blanc, the long line of Alps, and the glaciers of Switzerland, glittering in a meridian sun; whilst the vast amphitheatre, in which the Lake of Geneva is embosomed, was filled nearly to its brim with a dense mist, rising to as perfect a level as the expanse of the sea. Some regret was felt, that a parting look could not be given to the blue waters of Leman slumbering beneath; though its image had already been indelibly impressed upon the mind. At our feet, on the opposite side of the mountains, spread another kingdom, making the third in sight at the same moment. But the frontiers of France looked uniform, dull, and uninviting, in comparison with the romantic regions of Savoy and Switzerland, to which we now bade farewell for ever.