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CONCLUSION.

UPON the summit of the Jura, with the frontiers of a country once traversed in sight, my readers and myself must part, so far at least as it regards a journal in detail. If circumstances permitted, serious doubts are entertained, whether the little incidents of another visit to France and England, necessarily bearing a strong resemblance to scenes already described, could be made interesting to the reader. In the mean time, as I am anxious to approach somewhat nearer my country and my friends, than the bleak ridge of the Jura Alps, before taking leave of those, who have had the patience to follow me in my rambles abroad, a brief outline of my homeward passage will be traced, noting a few of the more prominent objects, which fell within the sphere of my observation.

Our journey to Paris, through Dole and Dijon, was extremely tedious, occupying four days, during which time the Diligence was constantly under way, though it made but tardy progress. The road is uniform, heavy, and dull, leading through a flat country appropriated almost exclusively to corn and vines, with scarcely a shade of variety in the scenery. Dijon, is the capital of the Department of the Cote D'Or. It is a town of some importance, the seat of the old Dukes of Burgundy. We rode several miles by the side of a new canal, which is about to be opened between the Seine and the Saone, connecting the waters of the Atlantic and Mediterranean. The work reflects credit upon the country. One of the passengers pointed out the native village of Buffon.

We found Paris agitated by three events, which excited more attention than the state of the country. These were the death of Talma, and the visits of Mr. Canning and Sir Walter Scott. The latter was still in town at the time of our arrival. A fair view of his person was obtained, in a walk through the Champs Elysées, at the celebration of the birth day of St. Louis. The crowd seemed to care less for him, than for wine, which flowed from vats gratuitously, the ascent of balloons, and the fiddlers and jugglers at the temporary theatres. He was plainly dressed, and passed unnoticed through the throng, with his daughter hanging upon his

left arm, while his right was used in supporting his infirmity. His heavy face was instantly recognized, from the bust that had been seen at Constable's, as well as from other likenesses and descriptions. The life of Napoleon absorbed most of his attention, and he was received with much less eclat, than Mr. Canning.

Talma's death shed a gloom, not only over the theatres, but through all classes of society, except the ecclesiastics. He was universally known, and much respected for his talents and acquirements, aside from his professional eminence. The shops were full of memoirs and eulogies, both in prose and verse.

The literary corps of Paris is sufficiently numerous, and not wanting in industry; but a majority of the number are employed in periodical publications, and in those departments, which can hardly be considered as falling within the province of regular authorship. Genius and learning are not sufficiently concentrated, to produce any of those splendid luminaries, which arose in the incipient stages of the Revolution, and were quenched in the blood of its concluding scenes. But if the thunders, which could shake thrones and kingdoms, are no longer wielded, the light artillery of wit and humour, the shafts of satire, and the weapons of political warfare, are managed with great dexterity. Reviews and newspapers have greatly multiplied within a few years, and are conducted with increased ability and spirit.

The Revolution had the effect to make the French more of a reading, inquisitive, and reflecting people, and to augment the demand for periodical literature, as well as for politics and useful information. The consequence has been, that intelligence is scattered over a wider surface, as in the United States; instead of being confined to particular classes or professed authors, as in England and some other European countries. To the Editor of the Revue Encyclopedique, the first work of the kind in France, 1 had the pleasure of an introduction, and met an agreeable circle of the literati at his table. His review is conducted with much talent, united to indefatigable industry; and some of the most distinguished men in Paris are among the contributors to its pages. Its contents are of a miscellaneous and practical character, precisely such as would suit an American community-one illustration among a thousand of the foregoing remarks.

During a second visit to Paris, much attention was given to politics. The journals were read daily, and we attended the debates in the Chamber of Deputies. But what can be said on this topic, which would be new or interesting in the United States, where the acts and views of the French government are almost as well known, in a month after they transpire, as are those of our own Administration?

I had the pleasure of being introduced to the leader of the opposition, who is now advanced in years, and venerable in his person. Such is his influence in society, and the interest which is felt in politics, that at an evening party, I have seen a circle of fifty gentlemen about him at the same moment, listening to his conversation. A subject must be very attractive, to withdraw the politeness and gallantry of a Frenchman from a devotion to the ladies.

The recurrence of the Holydays, and of the gay season of the Carnival, afforded us an opportunity of seeing more of the public and private amusements of the Parisians, than my limits will permit me to describe. On Christmas eve, the greatest religious festival, I joined a friend and his family, in making a circuit of the principal churches. But their decorations, as well as the ceremonies, appear tame, dull, and gloomy, in comparison with the pomp and splendour of Italy. The Carnival was not witnessed in the latter country. Its scenes were sufficiently gay, animated, and noisy at Paris. A bœuf gras, decorated with garlands, was led through the principal streets, followed by triumphal chariots, in which rode Cupids and other divinities of a maturer age, with half of the metropolis at their heels. The show was worth looking at, rather from its novelty, than from its intrinsic merits. Troops of both sexes, disguised by an interchange of dresses, were seen coursing the Boulevards, personating all manner of characters, and indulging in rude levities. Some of them underwent a metemsychosis, and appeared at the windows, in the shape of bears and wild beasts. Balls were given every night, both in public and private, masked and unmasked.

We attended one or two at the French Opera, and half a dozen at the houses of our acquaintances. At the former, a thousand persons perhaps assembled each evening. Gentlemen of all ranks in society attend; but ladies of respectability are more particular, except occasionally, as mere spectators.

In the round of hospitalities, the dinner parties, soireès, and social circles of our friends, we found enjoyments of a

more elevated, rational, and pleasing description. To the families and individuals, whose polite attentions had contributed so largely to the pleasures of our first visit, and were now renewed, many agreeable acquaintances were added during the winter. In several instances, estimable and intimate friendships were contracted, which I hope may be durable as life: certainly on my part, the remembrance of many happy hours, the grateful and cherished recollections of kindnesses manifested to strangers, and continued to the very eve of our departure from the city, are inscribed too indelibly upon the heart to be forgotten.

We re-examined old localities and visited new ones, went a second time through the Louvre, attended the courts at the Palais de Justice, looked at its curious historical records, and made an excursion to St. Cloud and Sevres; but I have no space for even a brief notice of these and a hundred other objects, and must take French leave of the metropolis, though several days were occupied, in making parting calls upon the circle of our friends. After so long and so agreea-, ble a residence, associated with a thousand scenes of instruction and delight, last looks and last words excited painful emotions, notwithstanding the allurements of a homeward passage.

On the morning of the 6th of March, we took the Diligence for Calais. The rain poured in such torrents, as to afford no opportunity of looking back from the heights of Montmartre. It was in all respects a gloomy day. The evening of the 7th brought us again to Dessein's Hotel. A tempest raged all night, and the wind continued high next morning. The master of one of the Havre packets, who from boyhood had been accustomed to brave every variety of weather, went to the wharves, looked at the clouds and sea, and thought the boat might cross in safety. He was appointed commodore of the squadron of passengers, who confided in his judgment, and in his skill in case of accident. It was a tremendous blow, and the agitation of the sea was frightful, dashing over the deck at every swell. Such was the tumult of winds and waters, that we could not land at Dover, and were obliged to run fourteen miles up the coast, to make the harbour of Ramsgate. This accident was in part alleviated · by affording us a view of Deal and the Downs, as well as of the fine port, which the boat safely entered; though it was difficult to reach the shore, even when sheltered by the noble

piers of granite. A good hotel made us comfortable for the night; and the next day we rode to London, visiting the tomb of the Black Prince, at Canterbury, on our way.

We immediately recommenced an examination of interesting localities in the British metropolis and its environs, which had not been seen at either of our former visits. The advice of our friends afforded us every facility in the accomplishment of these objects. Though not summoned, we went both to the Police Office, in Bow-street, and the Lord Mayor's Court, at the Mansion-House. The former is a small place, for one that makes so much noise. Justice Birnie was upon the bench, and a pretty French woman upon the stand, who spoke imperfect English. She had arraigned a sturdy coachman for exorbitant fees, but lost her cause. The Lord Mayor is a fine looking man. He was arrayed in the badges of office, but dispensed justice much at his ease, allowing the litigants at the bar to talk over the matter in a familiar manner among themselves. His audience was not of the most respectable kind, and a hasty retreat was effected.

The British Museum occupied half a day. It is an extensive and noble institution, though inferior to the Garden of Plants at Paris. Twenty-six rooms are filled with an infinite variety of articles in Natural History, with numerous curiosities from the Indies and the South-Sea Islands; such as idols and implements of the aborigines. The cabinets of mineralogy, conchology, and organic remains are very complete. Much neatness and taste, as well as a rigid regard to classification, are displayed in the arrangement; and the apartments are kept comfortable by fires. A large building, adjoining the institution, is now going up for the accommodation of the King's Library. The celebrated Elgin Marbles are deposited in a sort of shed, forming one wing of the Museum. They did not afford us a very high degree of pleasure, being chiefly torsos, interesting alone to professed artists. A recumbent river-god, and a Perseus are reckoned the finest.

Miss Linwood's gallery of embroidered pictures is one of the best shows in London. They are all wrought in worsted, and the texture far exceeds in delicacy the most finished tapestry of the Gobelins. She deserves infinite credit for her taste and industry. The whole was done with her own needle. She is a native of Leicester, and now at the age of 70.

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