AMUSEMENTS OF THE MONTH. THE HAYMARKET. After the bustle and excitement of the late unprecedented season, the Haymarket, and one or two more of the London theatres, have closed their doors, that managers and actors may snatch a brief repose before entering on their winter campaigns. We rejoice to find that the exertions of Mr. Webster to cater for the public have met with the substantial response they deserved, as we may gather to have been the case from the following address, delivered by him on the 11th ultimo: "Ladies and Gentlemen, -The closing of the Great Exhibition has brought our little exhibition to a happy issue. There the display of the industry of all nations achieved a success as triumphant as beyond all calculation-here we have attempted to pourtray the characteristics of all time which your approval has stamped with sterling artistic value. Of the great luminary we have been one of the distant satellites, benefitting by its light and warmth, and I can assure you both myself and others of my calling would gladly be again within its attractive circle for many a similar period. As lesser things often owe their value to the greater, our statistics show that upwards of 160,000 persons have paid to see the higher classes of dramatic amusements within this building since the opening in May of the justly-named world's wonder. Therefore I and all connected with me, are bound to earnestly exclaim, to the honoured Prince who conceived the magnificent project, to her gracious Majesty who encouraged it, and to the smaller geniuses who carried it out, be all honour and glory. No terms of thanks, ladies and gentlemen, can embody the deep sense of gratitude I feel for your patronage at all times, and this season especially; and be assured it will be my honest pride and unfeigned pleasure by still upholding the drama, and encouraging the living dramatists, to deserve a continuance of your support. "Until the 3rd of November next, when the necessary repairs will have been completed, for which alone we close, I most respectfully, ladies and gentlemen, bid you farewell, and wish you all health and happiness." For many years past the Haymarket theatre has been the favourite, and the magnet of attraction to discriminating play-goers; and among those who ought to know, it is rumoured that the approaching season will present many attractive novelties, and that the corps of artistes engaged will include great names and the most varied talent. SADLER'S WELLS. The most striking event during the past month at this theatre has been the engagement of Miss Fanny Vining, whose performance of the heroine in Sheridan Knowles's play of "The Wife" has elicited great and deserved admiration. The versatile talents of this excellent actress render her a great acquisition. Good standard plays, and frequent novelties well brought out, sustain the character of this little theatre, and draw genuine lovers of the drama from all parts of town to its unaristocratic neighbourhood. While we write, the interesting play of "Ingomar" has been produced with great success. FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER. Early as it is in the season, a great variety of mantelles, echarpés-mantelets, shawls, and mantles, have already appeared. They will all be worn according as the weather permits. As the cold in- ' creases, the lighter envelopes will give place to mantles and furs. Velvet and cloth are chiefly in request for mantelets and mantes. It may be observed, that cloth will not be so fashionable for them as the former material; but I have seen some pretty mantes composed of light grey cloth, and made with capuchons; the garniture is a deep effilé, in two colours-that of the cloth, and dark blue silk: it is headed with an embroidery in the latter of a wreath of foliage. The effect is very striking; the garniture of the capuchon corresponds. Cloth mantelets are very much trimmed: some with galons only; others with embroidery and galons; and several with passementerie and embroidery-these two last are also employed for velvet mantelets. I may cite, among the prettiest, those of garnet-coloured velvet, embroidered in a running pattern with silk of the same colour, and edged with a rich fringe to correspond. Still more elegant are those of black or violet velvet, trimmed with two rows of black lace, each headed with a natte formed of petits rouleaux of satin platted together; each natte is headed with two rows of very narrow black lace. Echarpes-mantilles are composed of velvet only, and principally of black velvet; they are rounded at the back, and descend in a square form in front. The garniture is a double row of very broad black lace. Another row of lace of the same width encircles a small falling collar of the shawl form, and is fixed at the bottom of the waist by a knot of ribbon, or an ornament of passementerie. Our readers will find, in our first plate, one of the most elegant mantelets of a rich but quiet kind that has yet appeared. One of the new forms of mantelets that I have reason to think will be very fashionable is a medium between the mantelet-visite and the paletôt; at present it is made in velvet only. It is a half-length at the back; the fronts are square: it is always wadded, lined with silk, and has short sleeves, of moderate width. It is bordered with passementerie, half black and half the colour of the robe. The garniture is completed by one or two rows of broad black lace at the bottom of the mantelet. French Cashmeres retain their vogue; the most novel of these shawls are very large and square, embroidered in silks of all colours. They appear to great advantage a black or grey taffeta robes, trimmed with very deep flounces richly embroidered in silk. One of the new creations for the public promenade and half-dress is the basquine moldo Valaque. In truth, there is nothing novel in this basquine but its name; for it is closely copied from the Amazones of Louis Quinze time, or the just-au-corps à la Fronsac, with the exception of the sleeves, which are of the pagoda form. Five rows of very small boutons à la Grecque, put close to each other, add to its Oriental style. The first goes down the front, and serves to close the basquine from top to bottom, if desired; two others cover the two pockets on the hips. The two last rows have a space between them of about a hand's breath; they part from the waist, and descend to the bottom of the basques. An embroidered velvet or satin gilet has an admirable effect with one of these basquines. Mantles are, I think, likely to be very much in favour this winter; those of cloth will continue their vogue not only in simple négligé, but in half-dress, with a different style of trimming for the latter. I may cite for the first, the Talma; it is revived, but with some alterations in the form; it is wider, falls in deeper folds behind, and is pointed in front. The colours are dark green, deep blue, maroon, and different shades of grey; they are wadded, and lined with silk. One of the most comfortable of the cloth mantles has the singular name of Saphir; it is a three-quarter length, made with sleeves, and sits closer behind than most of the others. The garniture is of cloth, cut out in a novel kind of pattern, which, as it is laid on the mantle, shews the cloth underneath. A very small soutache edges all the contours of the pattern. This trimming, though of a very quiet kind, is both novel and tasteful. | mantles in half-dress, as the material could not be Velvet, velours épinglé satin, and different kinds of rich fancy silks and satins, will be employed for chapeaux and capotes. The mode of employing two different materials of the same colour for a chapeau or capote is revived, and is likely to be very predominant. I need not speak of the shapes, as our plates will show them as they are at present. Some of the most remarkable of the chapeaux, composed of two materials, have the crown composed of velvet, alternating with rouleaux of satin; the brim is formed of three petit volants of satin ribbon, and entre deux of velvet; the edge of the brim is lightly turned up, the sides are very open; the interior and exterior are bordered with a petit volant of satin ribbon; the brides are of the same colour as the volants, but very broad. A heron plume drooping on one side completes the trimming. A new mantle, that will no doubt, as the season advances, entirely replace both the witschoura and the original burnous, is called the burnous Talma ; Some of the most elegant public promenade chait is composed of chiné tigré cloth, a material of an peaux are composed of blue or violet velvet; the extremely soft and warm kind, novel in appearance, crown is trimmed with two folds, arranged à la and draping admirably. This mantle is of a round Marie Stuart; a tuft of short, shaded feathers is form, made with a capuchin, from which two placed on each side. Narrow blonde lace, quilled glands Algeriens depend; it is wadded, lined within the cap style, decorates the interior of the brim. silk, and trimmed round with broad bands of black | Small light sprigs of flowers are intermixed with the velvet ribbon glacés. It is not yet possible to say lace, and droop lightly from it. A full shade of what form will be predominant for mantles, or in rose colour is much in favour for chapeaux. fact whether any will. Those that have already Several are trimmed with black lace, others with a appeared offer great variety. Some are very short mixture of black lace and bugles; the latter of the and close fitting, others very wide; some are smallest possible size. Some with satin crowns and trimmed in a simple style, while many of the same velours épinglé brims, have the crown decorated material have splendid garnitures. One point is with an ornament composed of four rows of narrow indispensable, the mantle and the robe must accord black lace, and rose-coloured effilés, equally narso far, that if the one is richly trimmed, the other row, drooping on the brim; the interior is decorated must be so too, and vice versa. with a mixture of black lace quilled, and rosecoloured effilés. Two large coques of rose-coloured satin ribbon, with short ends, descend from each side of the crown; brides of the same hue, very long and wide, complete the garniture. Several half-dress mantles composed of cloth differ very little in their forms from those of last year, but there is a good deal of novelty in their trimmings. The most dressy are embroidered in soie demi torse, or else ornamented with rich passementerie, and very deep effilé. The forms of some mantles that have just appeared resemble very much those of the manteaux espagnols of the sixteenth century, and of the court of the Valois; their cut, their width, the arrangement of their folds, falling on the arm in such a manner as to form a sleeve, are evidently copied from the portraits of those days. They are composed of cloth, velvet, silks of a very rich kind; and some for demi-toilette in drap-cachemire. The colours are various shades of grey, felt colour, pain brûlé, and other dark hues. The linings are of deep blue, violet, or ponceau taffeta. A falling collar descends gracefully on the shoulders. The trimmings are extremely rich; they consist of embroideries, galons encircling every part of the mantle. Rich trimmings are indispensable for cloth | ; Light green satin capotes, decorated with narrow black velvet ribbon, will be very fashionable for the promenade; they are formed of four rows of flat bouillonné, divided by three bands of black velvet the bavolet, full and rather deep, is edged with black velvet; the interior is trimmed with tufts of geranium. A knot, composed of green satin ribbon and black velvet, decorates the exterior. Black lace is a good deal employed for trimming velvet chapeaux of a dark colour. Some of violet, or ponceau velvet, have the lace lightly sprinkled with a few jet beads of the smallest size passed round the crown, and attached on one side only by a knot of velvet ribbons of different widths; long ends float from the knot upon the shoulder. A tuft of têtes de plumes, shaded in black and green, is placed on the other side; the interior is decorated with velvet pensées, with yellow hearts, attached by coques of velours épinglé ribbons corresponding with the hearts of the flowers. Several chapeaux are trimmed with ribbon composed of silk and velvet plaided in striking colours. It is not possible yet to say how far this style may become fashionable, but I think it is too showy to be elegant. I shall cite, from among the most remarkable of the demi-toilette capotes, some of lemon-coloured satin, trimmed with velours vapéur; the trimming descends from the crown on the brim in a fall of ornaments of a novel form; the interior of the brim is trimmed with blonde lace lightly intermixed with very small yellow velvet flowers, floating brides of velours vapéur completing the garniture. Laurel green is a favourite colour for chapeaux and capotes; some of the latter have satin crowns and velours épinglé brims; puffs of black lace encircle the crown, and chutes of ribbon and velvet intermingled droop from cach side. The interior of the brim is very tastefully decorated with a wreath composed of white and scarlet poppies mingled with ribbon. Several plain velvet capotes are of garnet-colour, the brim is rather long, and is bordered at the edge and at the bottom of the crown with a trimming of black lace mingled with verry narrow velvet ribbon; an appret descending behind on the bavolet forms the only additional ornament of the exterior. The interior is decorated by a bouquet of blue flowers, encircled with foliage. A capote that has recently appeared at a concert is composed of blonde coquillée; the edge is of tulle illusion, decorated with a wreath of green velvetfoliage, which is continued serpentining over the bavolet, and encircling the bottom of the crown; a deep blonde, which falls over the wreath, serves as a second bavolet. This capote has been much admired; it is one of the most novel that I have seen. Chapeaux seem likely to be adopted in dinner-dress. I may cite, among the most elegant, one composed of white velours épinglé and satin: the crown is formed of three bouillons of the two materials alternately; they are divided by small satin rouleaus. The brim is of velours épinglé laid plain, and ornamented by a superb white plume, passing from the right to the left: knots of rose-coloured velours épinglé and white satin decorate the interior of the brim; they are surmounted by scalloped blonde, laid flat round the interior of the brim. flowers imitating velours épinglé, are intended for evening robes. Brocatelle palmier is for full-dress; but taffetas are not yet dethroned, nor are they likely to be for some time. Some have recently appeared in grey, violet, and maroon: the first, glacé de blanc; the other, noir. They are trimmed with flounces; each flounce bordered with two stripes of a different and strongly contrasted colour. The corsages and sleeves are bordered to correspond. The damas jeune has the skirt trimmed with three flounces, bordered with wreaths of flowers. The damas mousse is very novel: it is a shaded and broché silk, with a glacé ground. Moires are expected to be very fashionable; and so are satins, though they have for some time past been little in favour. The new ones are of a very rich kindparticularly the fancy satins. There is, as yet, little novelty in the forms of robes; nor do I think there will be much. The corsage veste worn with a gilet is now called Corsage Louis XIII; but there is no alteration in its form it is always made separate from the skirt, and is adopted in home toilettes, for the public promenade, and half-dress-the material, the trimming, and the gilet differing according to its destination. A basquine is always indispensable with these corsages; but it may be worn without a gilet, for when buttoned from top to bottom it is a corsage Amazone; but it is more frequently open. Ꭺ superb robe, of this form, that has just been forwarded to a foreign court, is composed of blue velvet; the corsage bordered with a wreath of foliage in black velvet, and blue satin. The gilet was of the small shawl form, embroidered with rich Oriental patterns enlaced in Armenien arabesques, also of silver. The buttons were in brilliants and pearls. The entire of the skirt was embroidered with foliage, arabesques, and flowers in black velvet-the effect was equally novel and magnificent. Irish poplin robes are fashionable in half-dress; some blue, or violet ones, have the front of the skirt ornamented with three montants of black velvetribbon, about two inches broad; two wreathes of roses of a small size are lightly embroidered in black silk between the montants. The round of the corsage and sleeves are worked to correspond, and a small bouquet is worked in the upper part of the sleeve. This style of trimming is at once rich and Cloth, popeline de laine, and some other ser- quiet. Some satin dresses, trimmed with four viceable woollen materials, will be adopted for plain flounces, has each flounce bordered with a broad promenade robes. Popeline de laine is intended stripe of plaided velvet woven in the material. to replace merinos. Cloth will be adopted, not only These dresses are all made high, and the stripes are so in plain but in elegant promenade dress, according disposed that the corsage, sleeves, and basquines are to the manner in which it is trimmed. The colours bordered with them. Another novelty, of a very are dark green, pain brulé, marcon, and black. rich kind, also made with a high corsage, is comThe same colours are adopted for the public pro-posed of dark blue satin, with a pattern in velvet of menade; but the robe must be embroidered in soie the same colour, forming a tablier. demi-torse, or galon, or soutache. If the corsage is made high and close, the centre of it, and also of the skirt, should be embroidered. Another style that will be in favour both for the promenade and home dress, is, to have the corsage only worked, and open all down the front, shewing a silk gilet of the colour of the robe. This may be rendered dressy by the buttons and embroidery; but in general it is of a rich plain kind. Cloth mantelets, trimmed in a quiet way, may be worn in plain walking-dress with robes of the same, or with those of popeline de laine, or any other of the new woollen materials. Gros d'Espagne, Irish poplin, reps, damas jeune, and damas mousse will be in request for public promenade robes, and may be worn in half-dress. Gros de Tours droguets, reps, with lozenges and The négligé du soir will continue in evening dress for some time. The materials of robes have varied little, except that taffetas are gradually displacing the lighter summer materials. The corsage Louis Quinze is still the favourite. The splendid materials that are appearing for evening robes will not be immediately brought forward. It does not appear likely that any great change will take place in the forms of robes. There is nothing settled positively about trimmings. Flounces are expected to remain in vogue, and it seems certain that lace will be very much employed. There are also some new kinds of passementerie, but we know that nothing will be decided for some weeks to come. I refer my readers to the first plate for some pretty models of caps in home dress: they continue to be made short at the ears, and rather voluminously trimmed. Those with floating lappets are in a majority. No. 4, in our first plate, is one of the latest models of that style. The Marie Stuart form is much in favour in half-dress; so are the petites Fanchons Espagnoles, composed of maize and azure blue velvet quadrilled, bordered with scallopped blonde, and narrow black lace, and trimmed in front with knots of azure blue satin mingled with velvet. Nothing can be prettier for young married ladies than the Fanchonnettes, with long lace lappets at the sides, pointed behind, and trimmed with tuits of white or rose ribbon. Flowers will be profusely employed for coiffures and for trimming ball-robes. I cannot yet say what flowers will be most fashionable. We have several new ones; one of these, the rose Cristata, will certainly enjoy the honours of the season: it is indeed, a splendid flower. Feathers and rich ribbons will be more employed for the exterior of chapeaux than flowers, but the latter will still be used for the interior of the brims: they are now composed of velvet, or the beards of feathers. Several fancy feathers have appeared for chapeaux; the plumes écossaisses are among the most novel. The plumes neige, which have scarcely yet been seen, are of a lighter and more graceful kind, and will be very much in vogue. body. Short sleeve, finished at the bottom by two bands of quilled ribbon. Cambric under-sleeves confined by bands at the wrists. Cambric chemisette, made quite high. Pantaloons of the same, finished with worked flounces. No. 6. MORNING CAP.-Of spotted muslin, very full trimmed with embroidered borders and rose ribbon. Nos. 7. and 8.-New Patterns of EMBROIDERED SLEEVES. SECOND PLATE. CARRIAGE DRESS. - Chocolate-coloured gros d'Espagne robe; the corsage, quite high and close, descends in a rounded point, and is trimmed with a revers embroidered in soie torse of the same colour. The revers is lightly festooned round the eage, and the centre of the corsage is embroidered in a full gerbe of foliage also in the hue of the robe. Sleeves of the demi-pagoda form, worked round the bottom in a wreath of very small foliage to correspond with the revers; cambric under-sleeves. Two deep flounces festooned at the borders encircle the skirt. White satin capote, a moderately close shape, drawn in close runners. The interior is trimmed with small white flowers, intermixed with foliage, and white brides; the exterior, with a white plume. Burnous Talma of silver-grey cashmere, lined with white satin; it is not quite a three-quarter length, cut bias, so as to be moderately wide round the DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. neck and shoulders, descending in ample folds. A FIRST PLATE. pelerine en cœur forms the shape very gracefully, and is closed in front by fancy-silk buttons and cord. of flat fancy trimming go round the bottom of the Two rows of effilé encircle the pelerine; three rows cloak. CARRIAGE DRESS.-Gros d'Espagné robe, of a bright shade of lavender; the corsage high at the back, and very open on the bosom, with a revers of two DINNER DRESS. - Blue taffeta robe; corsage festooned falls, and a small basquine terminated en suite. Sleeves rather more than a three-quarter at the upper part, and shewing a little of a white veste, high at the back, very open on the boson length, moderately wide at the bottom, and termi-silk gilet, which closes at the chest, and denated by festoons. Embroidered chemisette; lace ruffles. Lilac satin chapeau, a very open shape, the interior lined with white satin, and very full trimmed at the sides with tufts of small white and red roses, intermixed with ornamental grasses and whitǝ brides; the exterior with white and lilac-shaded plumes. Cashmere shawl. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Robe of one of the new winter silks; a grey ground broché en noir; Corsage Amazone. Sleeves a three-quarter length, of the demi-pagoda form. The corsage and sleeves are trimmed with black velvet, and the skirt with a tablier composed of two broad bands of velvet on each side. Cambric under-sleeves; small cambric collar, edged with Valenciennes lace. Blue velvet chapeau, a moderately close shape, and rather long brim. The garniture is composed of satin rouleaux and black lace on the exterior. White flowers, lace, and blue brides decorate the interior. Cashmere Mantelet à Chale, bordered with a very broad rich fringe. YOUNG LADY'S DRESS, FASHIONABLE CAPS, &c. No. 3. HOME DINNER CAP.-Of English lace, trimmed with knots and coques of intermingled green and fawn-coloured ribbon, and floating lace lappets. No. 4. HOME CAP.-Of sprigged tulle, a round caul, bordered with Valenciennes lace, and profusely trimmed with blue and fawn-coloured ribbon. No. 5. YOUNG LADY'S DRESS.-Frock of green taffeta broché, a low body, opening to the waist, the opening crossed by bands of quilled ribbon. The shoulders and back are trimmed with the same, as is also the short round jacket that terminates the scends a little below the waist. The embroidered the embroidery encircles the basquine, which is revers of the corsage terminates at the waist; but moderately deep, and rounded in front. Sleeve Henri III., a three-quarter length, open to the elbow, and embroidered to correspond with the revers; lace under-sleeves and chemisette. The skirt is trimmed with three embroidered flounces, so disposed as to appear like three skirts. A round of lace encircles the knot of hair at the back of the head, in the style of a cap front; the garniture is composed of autumnal flowers, and a sprig of light green foliage issuing from under the lace on one side, and a knot and ends of white ribbon on the other. Preparing for Publication. A beautifully illustrated work on the "Parables of our Saviour," is announced for publication by Mr. Mitchell, of Bond Street, on the first of December next. The designs are by Franklin, and the engravings (in line) by Lightfoot, Joubert, Watt, Goodall, Nusser, of Dusseldorff, and Blanchard, of Paris. The text of the several Parables engraved throughout by Becker. Size of the volume, quarto imperial; and proofs on half-sheet imperial. TO CORRESPONDENTS. ACCEPTED.-A. S. DECLINED WITH THANKS.-V. T.; S. Printed by Joseph Rogerson, 246, Strand, London. |