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inscription :-"Sacred to the memory of Content, the Count his horse bestrides, the Rev. John Williams, Father of the
And with his vassals off he rides : Samoan and other Missions, age 43 years
In dust the train is disappearing,
The tramp of steeds is out of hearing, and 5 months, who was killed by the cruel natives of Erromanga in Nov. 20, 1839, And now the maiden stood alone, while endeavoring to plant the Gospel of The golden sun upon her shone; Peace on their shores." The memoirs Heav'n, as if truth and love defending, close with a friendly estimate of the cha
Its deep blue arch was o'er her bending. racter of Williams by the author, and ano.
Haste, haste, to yonder tow'r on high ! ther, which is quoted from the Rev. Mr.
How in the breeze her garments fly! Ellis. It would not be easy to overrate The wind, it seems, is whispering near her, his many solid and useful qualities and ac- Asks, when to freedom it may bear her. quirements; nor, indeed, to give due praise to that happy combination of gifts and
Now from the door she looks below,
She sees the world in sunshine glow, graces which rank this excellent and hon
Sees walls and forts their summits raising, ored man as among the most eminent of And feels a thrill of hope while gazing. the Christian missionaries of any age.
In perusing the memoirs of Williams, Now wishfully her arms are spread, and some of our other celebrated missiona- And now she lets them fall with dread; ries, we are forcibly struck by the superior
On the faint ear a sound is breaking,
For at the door the maid is speaking. advantages which the presence of their wives and children, the influence, instruc
“Oh Godfrey, Godfrey, ever dear, tion, and example, of Christian matrons I come-I come—the key I bear. must give to Protestant over Roman Belov'd, I can descend to see thee; Catholic missions. One family resembling
But yet, alas ! I may not free thee."
“Oh, dearest, if the key be thine,
Haste, to my lips refreshment bringing,
A SLEIGH DRIVE IN CANADA WEST. at sunrise; though usually the cold is not inBY SIR J. E. ALEXANDER, KNIGHT, 14TH REGIMENT. For amusements, the military have their usual O Winter, ruler of the inverted year,
field-days on the drill-ground, their brigadeThy scatter'd hair with sleet like ashes filld,
exercise in the country, a garrison theatre, a Thy breath congeald upon thy lips, thy cheeks
gymnasium, a racket court, and a select pack Fring'd with a beard made white with other snows of hounds, to fight against the monotony of Than those of age, thy forehead wrapt in clouds, “the bush.” The society of the town consists A leafless branch thy sceptre, and thy throne of, as yet, only three or four families; but when A sliding car, indebted to no wbeels,
the plank-roads now in process of construction, But urged by storms along its slipp'ry way, I love thee, all unlovely as thou seem'st,
from London to Brantford, to Port Stanley, SarAnd dreaded as thou art !
nia, Godrich, &c., are completed, and most of
them will be this year, a great population will To make a break in a long Canadian winter, be "located” along these roads, and London a small party was formed in the garrison of will also rapidly increase. London, Canada West, in the beginning of
As few people in the Old Country are ac1843, to visit the Falls of Niagara when encir- quainted with ihe nature of plank-roads, apparcled with a snowy mantle, and margined with ently so suitable for wooded countries in course clustering icicles; and after viewing the sublime of settlement, and which are now being laid for cataract under this peculiar aspect, the parties hundreds of miles in Canada West, I beg to annex proposed to participate for a short season in the a short description of one. The whole breadth gayeties of Toronto, before returning to the of the clearing through the bush is 64 feet, the
stumps and squirrels” of the back woods. road-bed is 30 feet wide, the ditches on each Our company consisted of two ladies and four side are 8 feet wide at lop, 2 feet at bottom and officers, three servants, the same number of two-13 feet deep from the crown of the road. The horse sleighs, well provided with buffalo, fox, plank-way, on which is the travelling for roughand racoon robes. Clothes-bags were strapped shod horses only, is 16 feet wide. There are five to the runners, fur caps and fur-hreasted coats rows of sleepers, 4+6 inches, laid in the ground, were donned, and, with bells ringing on the the earth well rammed down on each side of collars and breaststraps of the willing steeds, them, 3-inch plank, 12 inches wide, is laid on the cavalcade briskly trotted over the natural the sleepers, and secured to them by spikes of railroad of snow, to the sound of the leader's iron, 64 inches long, by 3-8ths of an inch square. horn.
The road is graded to an elevation not to exThe Canadian London which we had just left. ceed 21 degrees; all the material to be of the and which now contains about 2600 souls, is in best pine, and the expense averages £1000 curthe midst of a considerable clearing in the pine rency per mile. The road will probably last woods, which on sandy ridges overhang the ten years; when it may be renewed, or its place waters of the shallow and swift-running Thames. supplied by a macadamized road or a railroad. Among innumerable stumps and trunks, blasted The road will pay for itself, indirectly, by atby fire and girdling, are seen wide streets at tracting settlers. right angles to each other; these are for the Our way led past small log or frame farmmost part bordered by scattered wooden houses houses, separated from the road by the everyof one and two stories, and many houses have where-seen zig-zag or snake fence. The smoke vegetable gardens about them. In the princi- curled lazily from the chimneys; few moving pal thoroughfare, Dundas-street, where the best objects were descried about the doors; an occastores are, the houses are adjacent, and some sional wood-sleigh, or one laden with forage, few are of brick. In the Market-square there would pass us on the road. Then we entered is a castellated court-house and agaol; a hand- the woods of tall pine, the stumps of which in some English church, Scotch, Roman Catholic, the foreground would be curiously topped with Wesleyan, and other places of worship are in a foot or two of snow, like huge plum-cakes various parts of the town. Frame barracks, iced" with sugar. A solitary black squirrel which cost £30,000 currency,* and log ones, would run across the road, and mount a tree, both surrounded with palisades, are outside of but no sounds, save those of our bells, would init, on high ground. 'Three wooden bridges span terrupt the solitude of " the bush." the river, dignified with the names of Black
In Canada horses are treated as in some parts friars, Westminster, and Wellington; and on of Ireland, — two feeds of water and one of every side the view is bounded by the level tops oats;" we accordingly pulled up after fourteen of the dark forest.
miles to water, and then halted for a couple of As to climate, it is dry and healthy; hardly hours at Ingersoll, twer ty-five miles, to water ever an officer on the sick list, and about four or again and feed. The principal movement here five per cent. of the men in hospital at one time. was produced by “small boys" dragging handYet in the months of June, July, August, and sleighs up a slope, and then hurling on them.to September, the thermometer is often above 80°, the bottom. We accomplished our sixty miles, and sometiines at 100° in the shade, whilst in without much fatigue to the horses, in seven winter, usually beginning about the 1st of De-hours, exclusive of the mid-day halt
, and cember and ending about the beginning of crossing the Ouse, or Grand River, by a covered April
, the thermometer is sometimes seen at wooden bridge, we took up our quarters in the 30, 70, and 10° below Zero, on successive days large village of Brantford; named after Brant,
the Indian warrior. * £l currency is equal to 16s. sterling. Brantford is the scene of frequent riots and
disturbances. In passing through it in summer At the thriving village of Simco, near the we heard that the American residents had just north shores of Lake Erie, one may board at a celebrated the anniversary of the independence respectable inn, have a good bed and three of the United States, by firing musketry in the meals (with meat at each,) a-day for 2 dollars, streets, and also a cannon, which had probably or 108. a week,- £26 per annum. been originally intended to aid in the late rebel- This winter in Canada 100 lbs. weight of pork lion. The loyal party attacked the Ameri- could be bought for 2 dollars, 8 shillings,) and cans, and a sharp conflict ensued, ending in the the same quantity of flour for the same price, withdrawal and concealment of the great gun and even less. Potatoes for 7fd. the bushel, so and small arms, along with those who used that allowing a man llb. of flour and 1 of pork them. Now there had been a municipal elec-a-day, the expense of this common feeding would tion, and one party had engaged a number of amount to 15 dollars, or £3 a year; and wages fighting Irishmen from the Welland Canal, to are 2s. for a laborer, and 3s. or 4s. for a mechanic carry the day with knock-down arguments. a day. A skirmish took place in the Town-hall
, which One of the chief annoyances to which housewas continued in the street, and followed up to holders in Canada are subject, is that of ser. various houses; and the result was forty people vants; the feeling of independence, and even of seriously injured.
insolence, which they soon imbibe, causes endOur party found their peace also disturbed in less vexation to their masters. Long and faiththis unruly place, the genius loci seemingly be- ful service in Canada is almost unknown; but ing constant riot. The ladies of our party usu- if the stream of emigration continues to flow ally on the journey occupied the best bed-room towards the land of the West,” help of some in the house, whilst the gentlemen stretched sort, though not long by the same bands, may themselves on “shake downs” in the sitting- be counted on. Lately, a gentleman from the room, preferring this method for sociability's old country lived on a large farm, which he had sake, and to take advantage of the fire; most bought in the neighborhood of London, Canada of the bed-rooms in country inns in Canada are West; he had brought with him from England mere closets, with curtainless stretchers, con- a laboring man, whom he promoted in Canada taining leather-bed nuisances and very small to the office of bailiff and gardener; the wages pillows. At three o'clock in the morning a fe- of this functionary were good, and he was prumale entered our dormitory in the dark, craving dent. One morning he came to the gentleman, water, and finding a jug on the talılé, look a and said, “Measter! I have been a long time hearly pull at it, and then carried it off
, but with you now.” “Yes, you have, what of missing her footing at the head of the stairs, she that ?' " I think, Measter, you and me's about rolled to the bottom, breaking the crockery, and equal." "How do you make out that ?” “You alarming the house. Shortly after she appeared see, Measter, you makes me eat my vittels in again, but now with a light, and seizing a bot- your kitchen, now you know that won't do here." tle of Cogniac on the table, she said, "" They “Well, what do you want?” “Why I wants & tell me there's some London officers here, I'll knife and fork in your parlor, or else I clears fix them? a bad set, to turn me, a soldier's wise, out.” “ What! to eat with my family? No, out of barracks, because some told lies about no; that will never do, so clear out as soon as me. I don't get a chance like this every day to you like.” pay them off. They receive a serjeant's word, Another Englishman cleverly kept his servant, 100, before a poor soldier's! but if I don't pull and in the proper place, thus : he engaged an their chicken now (take advantage of them) its American female “help,” who, the first day, laid a pity.”
an extra cover at table. "Who is that for ?" "Oh! this is destruction,” groaned one of the was asked. “I guess it's for myself,” was the sleepers, “clear out, and let us sleep.”
“Oh! you mean to dine with us!" No, no, here I sit, I'll have a talk with ye " I expect I do." Very well!" She accordfirst, and try your grog," whereupon she swal- ingly sat down with the family, and the master lowed half-a-tumbler of raw spirits. Fair words paid her the most marked attention, helped her and abuse were equally thrown away upon her. to the choicest food, assisted her to bread, beer, "She was as good as us, only she had not as &c., from the sideboard, and in short, so overmuch money in her pocket." She locked the powered her with civility, that she begged " for door, sat down before it, and put the key in her goodness sake” to be allowed to eat alone, and pocket; at last, on the landlord calling to her in her own place; and she did so, and did good from below, she seized up the bottle saying, service besides. “I'll treat the boys with this,” and disappeared ; But let us continue our drive. On the second a pursuit ensued by our servants, and the bottle morning we cheerfully " put to” at Brantford; was recovered from her lower garments. and under the exhilarating influence of a sharp
The usual charge at inns in Canada West is frost and clear sky, we glided over the frozen one shilling (English) for each meal, and six- show at a rapid pace on our way to Hamilton. pence for a bed. A stranger travelling through The Grand river ivas on our right, navigable in the country will do well not to ask for a bill, for the open season for fifty miles toward Lake Erie, then it is very possible he may be overcharged, and we passed near a considerable colony of Inbut if he goes up to the bar-keeper and says, dians on its banks, who at this season are muf" I've had so many meals,” and deposits the filed up in their blankets and red leggings. corresponding number of shillings, all will be By putting two of the servants in one sleighi right. Three shillings a night is the usual with the baggage, four of the party could always charge for a pair of horses, and a shilling for a be together, and thus the time was agreeably mid-day feed.
diversified with song and story. Two of us had | him, told him to put on his cap. “I'll do that been “ bronzed” in the East, a field always sup- outside, Sur." "No, put it on, now; you know plying a store of anecdote and adventure. Here a soldier should never take his cap off." It was is one of the recollections of the land of the sun. done cautiously. “How long have you been The dexterity of Indian thieves is unrivalled; sick?" "It's been coming on for some time, but an Irish officer, in a part of the country in Sur." “ What's that running over your eyes ?" bad repute, laid a heavy wager that they could The patient putting up hie hand, “Oh! 'tis not rob him; his brother officers took him up, nothing but the sweat, Sur.” “ How comes it and determined to rob him themselves, but they black ? Serjeant, bring him another dose of the were saved the trouble. At night he went to same.” Pat swallowed this with a terrible gribed in his tent, sleeping on a cot resting on and mace and shudder; whilst the others, watching fixed to his two bullock trunks, a chain was outside, cried to Pat, “By the powers but he's passed through the handles of these and pad-done ye,” and forthwith disappeared. locked to the tent-pole; he placed his money Leaving Hamilton, we soon approached the under his pillow, and a brace of loaded pistols; battle-ground of Stony Creek, memorable in the his sword was on one side, and his double-barrel late American war. On the right was the woodon the other; he had also a terrier dog with ed ridge, leading towards Niagara; below was him. Taking " a night-cap,” in the shape of a a level plateau, thinly sprinkled with trees; glass of brandy-and-water, he lay down in full beneath this again were cultivated fields and security: but, alas ! for all his precautions, in the houses of the village of Stony Creek, through the morning he lay on his sheet on the ground which the straight road led ; on the left, fields in a tent completely “gutted.” The thieves and thickets sloped away gently towards Lake had enticed away the dog, listed him off the Ontario. stretcher on the sheet, removed his money and The American army, 3,500 strong, and fol. arms, lifted the tent-pole and passed under it lowing the British on their route towards the the chain which secured the bullock trunks, and Burlington heights, one night took up their got clear off with their booty!
bivouac on the plateau beneath the ridge. The Hamilton on Burlington Bay, and near the present Governor of Newfoundland, the gallant celebrated heights of the same name, the natu- Sir John Harvey, asked leave of his Chief to ral citadel of Canada West, is in the midst of a return with 500 chosen men and surprise the most thriving district; beautiful farms are every- Americans, reposing in fancied security ; leave where seen around, with fields clear of stumps, was granted. He made a desperate onslaught and enclosed with good fences. The town has at night; the Americans broke and fled, leava cheerful aspect, with broad streets and lofty ing their cannon, munitions of war, and two houses, and there is constantly a commercial Generals in the hands of the victors. An exmovement and bustle in it. With the clear wa-perienced military friend commonly says of afters of the bay in front, the back-ground of the fairs of this sort,' “ The value of night attacks picture is a rich screen of trees clothing the side is not at all understood-it is a mine which has of a ridge which runs to Niagara, distant fifty not been worked or appreciated." miles.
We passed on to Forty Mile Creek, and there Teetotalism is extending in Hamilton, as else took up our quarters for the night in the clean where in Canada; and it is needful it should do wayside inn, with “ Jennings" on the sign; but so in a land overflowing with whiskey at 6d. a new people had just taken the house, and though quart. Soldiers are sorely tried with this temp- somewhat unprovided for our party, yet they tation in Canada; and though among them made up for deficiences in provant and beds, by there is a good deal of “steady drinking,” yet civility and attention; and we, being in good the extraordinary inebriation which used to health and spirits, were not in the mood to comprevail in India is unknown. There, the worthy plain of any thing. Whilst supper was preparMedico, one of our sleigh party, had once charge ing, some itinerant Italian organists, exhibiting of a detachment of 240 men; out of this number wax figures in a box of the Siamese twins, playthere were 64 cases of delirium tremens, from ed lively tunes in the bar, and set the feet of our hard drinking, in three months! There was a soldier-servants in motion, who danced jigs, to pump in the barrack-yard, and every morning the surprise of the “loalers" lazily collected he saw drunkards helped to it by their com. about the stove. rades, and copiously pumped on to fit them for “I cannot find beds for all you gentlemen,” parade, which passing, in a way, they drank said the hostess, “ but I'll do the best I can for again, and again were pumped on for evening ye.” “Make up a family-bed for us in the sitparade!
ting-room, with two maitresses side by side," He played them a trick one day. A party of we anewered; and it was so contrived. An old them came to the hospital to get some medicine, and dry Yankee attendant amused us; he was to escape parade altogether. One came for- as civil as the rest of the people of the house, but ward ; * What is the matter with you ?” “Oh! on the ladies objecting to his proposal to light I am very bad in my inside, Sur.” “Go into the fire in their room in the morning, (as he the surgery, and you'll get some medicine. Ser- stood with his slouched glazed hat and looselyjeant, give this man some of the black bottle on fitting jacket and continuations at our door, lanthe upper shell." A horrid mixture, kept for tern in hand, to ask if we wanted any more help malingerers, composed of salts, senna, tobacco- from him,) he replied, "Well, I guess the little water, assafætida, &c. Pat tasted it
, and not girl will make the fire for ye, if ye are afeard of liking it, slyly emptied the glass into his cap. ihe old man; but ye are safe enough here, I tell The Doctor watched him, and calling him io lye.".
Next morning we were off by times, with our ing on portions of the vapor into which the wa. snowy railroad as good as ever, the three sleighster is comminuted below. Altogether the apmaking the woods on each side tuneful with pearance was most startling. It was observed, their light bells; the driver, who led, occasion- at 1 P. M., from the gallery of Mr. Burnett's ally blew a blast with a horn, to warn the coun- museum. try sleighs to share with us the road, but which The broad sheet of the American Fall prebrought the dwellers in the scattered houses to sented the appearance of light green water and their doors; a piece of paper held up would feathery spray, also margined by huge icicles. bring them out for a fancied letter-they would The great masses of rock at the bottom were run back for change for a shilling York (6d.) to covered, as it were, with pure white heaps of pay for it, when the train would drive off, with cotton, whilst on the left, and in front of the Fall, much laughter. Mounting some steep ascents, a cone was in process of formation from the conand passing along an undulating road, we gealing vapor. As in summer, the water rushreached Drummondville, or Lundy's Lane, the ing from under the vapor-cloud of the two Falls, scene of another sharp conflict; the favorable was of a milky whiteness as far as the serry, state of the snow now induced a repetition of when it became dark, and interspersed with the combat-one sleigh against another, with floating masses of ice. Here, last year, from snowballs. Gliding down the street of the vil- the pieces of the ice being heaped and crushed lage we heard beneath us the heavy roar of the together in great quantities, was formed a thick world's wonder, the mighty Niagara, and then and high bridge of ice completely across the sourd ourselves at the door of the Clifton hotel. river, safe for passengers for some time; and in
The great cataract is seen by few travellers the middle of it a Yankee speculator had erectin its winter garb. I had seen it several years ed a shanty, for refreshments. before in all the glories of autumn, its encircling Lately, at a dinner party, I heard a Staff Ofiwoods happily spared by the remorseless hatch-cer of talent propose to the company a singular et, and tinted with all the brilliant hues peculiar wager, —
,-a bet of £100 that he would go over the to the American “ Fall.” Now the glory had Falls of Niagara, and come out alive at the botdeparted—the woods were still there, but were tom! No one being inclined to take him up, generally black, with occasional green pines; and after a good deal of discussion as to how beneath the gray trunks was spread a thick this most perilous feat was to be accomplished, mantle of snow, and from the brown rocks, in the plan was disclosed. To place on Table closing the deep channel of the Niagara river, Rock a crane, with a long arm reaching over the hung huge clusters of icicles, twenty feetinlength, water at Horse-shoe Fall ; from this arm would like silver pipes of giant organs. The tumultu- hang by a stout rope, a large bucket or cask: this ous rapids appeared to me to descend more re-would be taken up some distance above the gularly than formerly over the steps which dis- Fall, where a mill-race slowly glides towards tinctly extended across the wide river; in the the cataracı: here the adventurer_would get midst of the rapids, and before the awful plunge into the cask, men stationed on the Table Rock of the cataract, was fixed a conspicuous black would haul in the slack of the rope as he deobject, which appeared to be the remains of a scended, and the crane would swing him clear vessel. These, I was assured, were the last from the cataract as he passed over. Here is a vestiges of the Detroit, the fag ship of Commo- chance for any gentleman sportsman to immordore Barclay, and on whose deck he bled whilst talize himself? sustaining his unequal combat on the waters of A rapid thaw took place after we reached the Lake Erie in 1813. In 1841 the Detroit was Falls: the icicles which before had covered brought from Buffalo to be sent over the Falls, every blade of grass, twig, and tree, and caused but grounding on the great ledges of the Rapids, them to bend to the Falls as if in worship of it has, by degrees, been reduced to a few black | them, and all the while glittering in the sunribs. It was impossible to look upon these me- beams with exceeding splendor, while the callancholy remains of a fierce struggle without dron boiling beneath, and sending up its see thing feelings of intense interest.
cloud, above which waterfowl wildly careered. The portions of the British, or Horseshoe under the influence of the thaw the icy glories Fall, where the waters descend in masses of began to vanish, and it was dangerous to pass snowy whiteness, were unchanged by the sea- under the cliff's where the great icicles hung, son, except that vast sheels of ice and icicles for an occasional crash would be heard, and hung on their margin; but where the deep masses of ice, like pillars of alabaster, would be waves of sea-green water roll majestically over detached and fall, tons weight at a time, on the the steep, large pieces of descending ice were path below. descried ever and anon on its bosom. No rain- We walked towards the old Pavilion Hotel, bows were now observed on the great vapor- now the barracks of a party of the newly-emcloud, which shrouds for ever the bottom of the bodied Royal Canadian Rifle Corps, composed Fall; but we were extremely fortunate to see of volunteers from various regiments stationed now plainly what I had looked for in vain at my in this country. Their winter dress was comlast visit, the water-rockets, first described by fortable and soldier-like, high and flat caps of Captain Hall
, which shot up with a train of va black fur, gray great-coats, black belts, and por singly, and in flights of a dozen, from the long boots. We asked several men who had abyss near Table Rock, curved towards the lately worn the red jacket, if they were pleased East, and burst and fell in front of the cataract with their change of service, and they said that Vast masses of descending fluid produce this they were quite happy and contented. A man, singular effect, by means of condensed air act- lately of my company, had married a wile with