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nest among horticultural writers, I ven- trees stand at irregular distances apart.

ture to correct the error that has been tolerated so long.

WHY SEPTUPLE.-This system I call the Septuple because it is made up of regular groups of seven. The geometrical figure formed by this group is that of a hexagon, with a tree at each angle and a tree in the middle, thus:

FIG. 13-THE SEPTUPLE GROUP.

NOTE-It is possible to resolve the trees planted by this system into groups of five, but they do not form a regular equilateral figure. Thus, in Fig. 0, it is seen at a glance that the figure formed is not a square, hence cannot come within Webster's definition of quincunx.

*

FIG. 0-SHOWING MISAPPLICATION OF TERM QUINCUNX The complete orchard is resolvable into a succession of these groups, matched together like the blocks in a hexagon quilt.

FIG. 14-SEPTUPLE GROUPS. NO PRACTICAL BEARING.-Of course, the fact that trees planted on this system, or on any other, are resolvable into groups cuts no figure in the practical work of planting or cultivating the orchard. Neither will one readily discover this geometrical peculiarity on inspecting the trees themselves. On the contrary, between the Quincunx and Septuple planted orchards, scarcely any difference is observable on casual inspection.

THE DIFFERENCE.-But there is a difference, and an essential one in the economy of planting. Taking the figure of the quincunx, for example, we see that the

A B

e

C D

FIG. 15-IRREGULAR DISTANCES APART. Thus, the established square distance being twenty-four feet, A and B are twenty-four feet apart; likewise B and D D and C, and C and A. But the distance from each one of these trees to e is seventeen feet (approximately). Hence it happens that, while the rows up and down the orchard and transversely may be too open (24 feet), the diagonal rows (from A to D and B to C) may be too close (17 feet). With the septuple system, this difficulty is entirely obviated, as each tree is equidistant from all proximate trees.

A B

F G C

E D

FIG. 16-TREES EQUIDISTANT.

Thus, from A to B and B to C and thence around the hexagon, the spaces are the same, and these spaces also equal the lines A G, BG, C G, D G, etc.

THE ADVANTAGE.-Herein lies the great advantage of Septuple planting, making it, in my opinion, the finest system ever devised. Upon a given space, allowing the same distances between trees, fifteen per cent more trees may be planted Septuple than by the Square system. This seems at first glance impossible, but it is nevertheless a fact. A gain of fifteen per cent in the productive capacity of land is not to be ignored. Many merchants handle goods on a margin of fifteen per cent, and many farmers may find that fifteen per cent turns the scale in their profit and loss account. There are other practical advantages in the Septuple system. As the trees come in equally spaced rows, in four different ways, they may be cultivated with advantage in as many directions, making each cultivation criss-cross several others. In irrigating, water may sometimes be run down the diagonal rows with great advantage. Especially is this true where the orchard is located on sloping land and the fall is too great to allow the running of water down the straight rows.

NOT DIFFICULT.-The novice should not allow himself to be dazed by the multiplicity of geometrical figures which I have given in explaining the nomenclature of the system. It does not require a surveyor to stake off the orchard ground in Septuple form. On the contrary, when you once grasp the theory you will find it as easy as any other system.

SEPTUPLE ILLUSTRATED.-To give an occular demonstration of an orchard planted by this system, I present a diagram after the manner of those in preceding chap

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FIG. 17-SEPTUPLE ORCHARD ILLUSTRATED. METHOD OF STAKING.-The staking is done in substantially the same way as described in the Quincunx planting. Run two check-rows of stakes along opposite sides of the orchard, and, in using the chain, alternate the check-tags as previously described. By shifting the chain back and forth the trees are brought alternately opposite (Fig. 11).

KEY TO THE SEPTUPLE SYSTEM.-It is in setting the stakes in the check-rows that the difference between this and all other systems occurs. This must be explained at length. In Fig. 18 it is plainly observable that the trees in opposite rows arrange themselves in triangles.

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300-17% (nearly), or 17 feet 4 inches. ANSWER.-If A C is twenty feet and A D ten feet, then the distance from C to D is seventeen feet and four inches.

The orchard being staked on the Septuple system, with the trees twenty feet apart, the stakes in the check-rows should be seventeen feet and four inches apart.

Having staked the check-rows the required distance, proceed to stretch the chain and set the stakes exactly as described in Quincunx planting. Remember the injunction there given to pull out alternate stakes in the check-rows when you are through with them. (See Fig. 12.)

DISTANCE FOR CHECK-Rows.-For convenience of reference, I append a table, showing the distances at which the checkstakes should be set for various spaces: 10 feet apart.. 8 feet 8 inches. 10 "42-5"

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*FIG. 18-TRIANGULAR ARRANGEMENT.

It has been explained that the trees are equal distances apart each way, and hence A B C is an equilateral triangle. Now, we have the simple geometrical problem:- 24

NUMBER OF TREES TO THE ACRE.-To 16 feet apart............ ascertain the number of trees to the acre, 18 Septuple planting.

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RULE.-Calculate the number set the 21 same distance apart on the Square system, and add fifteen per cent.

NUMBER OF TREES TO THE ACRE.

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*NOTE-This system, with equal propriety, might be termed the Triangular system. I have preferred, however, to denominate it the Septuple, following the analogy of the Quincunx-a group about a cen. tral tree.

CHAPTER XII,

TAKING TREES FROM NURSERY.

TIME.-In determining the time for transplanting orange trees we should consider, first, the condition of the trees: second, the season.

The orange tree has several periods of growth during the year. It would be impossible to define exactly these growing seasons, or even to state their number, so much do they vary in different trees and under different conditions of health and vigor, irrigation, cultivation, etc.; but there are certain times when nearly all orange trees are dormant, and other times when nearly all are growing.

THE DORMANT STAGE. In transplanting orange trees it is best to take them in their dormant stage, as they do not then feel the shock of removal as much as when they are active. Approaching a general rule as nearly as possible I may give the dormant periods as follows:

Middle of March to the middle of April. The month of June.

The month of September.

growth following, exercises a powerful in fluence in starting the tree upon its new life. I have known trees planted in September to thrive finely, though few people plant at that time. November and December planting is not in vogue at all.

TRIMMING TREES BEFORE TRANSPLANTING. It is a good plan to prune nursery stock quite heavily a week or ten days before transplanting. This gives the trees a chance to recover from one shock before encountering the second. The shock of pruning has a tendency also to throw the tree into a more complete dormant condition, when it suffers least from the laceration of the roots.

It is a universal rule in horticulture that in transplanting a tree, the top should be With orange trees this is almost a sine qua cut away in proportion to the loss of roots.

non.

If the trees are not pruned before removal they should be pruned directly afterwards, and the knife should be used

Middle of November to the middle of vigorously. I know an experienced grow

December.

THE VARIOUS SEASONS.-Many people transplant trees in March-April season with excellent results. The danger to be provided against at that time is in the cold weather which is likely to prevail. If the roots suffer a chill the tree is irretrievably stunted if not killed outright. June is the most popular time for planting, and, all things considered, the best, as neither excessive cool nor hot weather is encountered, and the season of strongest

er who follows the rule of depriving his lemon trees of every leaf at the time of transplanting. He claims that they start more readily for this heroic treatment, and I am not prepared to dispute his hypothesis.

THREE METHODS OF TRANSPLANTING.There are three common methods of transplanting citrus trees:

1st. Balling or sacking the roots. 2d. Puddling the roots.

3d. Packing the roots in damp straw.

BALLING.-This is undoubtedly the best method, though the most laborious and expensive. Trees that are carefully balled and well planted seldom lose their leaves, and, with the next succeeding period of growth, are almost sure to make a start. The operation of balling is thus performed:

A trench fourteen to sixteen inches deep is dug along one side of the nursery row cutting the earth about six inches from the stalks. Then the digger takes a sharpedged spade, and by carefully working under from the bottom of the trench exposes the tap root. This he severs by a well directed blow or two. Next, vertical cuts are made in the soil on each side of the tree transversely with the trench, and a block of earth about a foot each way is formed. This block is carefully shaved off and rounded. Lastly, the spade is inserted in the side opposite the trench, and the ball is loosened from the contiguous ground. A little more shaving makes it symmetrical all round. The ball thus formed should be grasped with both hands, and the tree lifted from its place and set upon the half of a grain bag already provided and spread upon the ground close by. It generally happens that the end of the tap root projects an inch or two below the ball of earth. Accordingly a little slit is made in the middle of the grain bag, through which the end of root protrudes. The edges of the bag are then drawn up tightly about the ball, and fastened by winding with bailing rope or stitched with stout twine. If the ball is tied, the rope is first wound about it vertically with a hitch around the stock at the top and another about the tap root at the bottom to hold the wrap in place. Two vertical wraps are made, crossing each other at right angles, top and bottom, and a third turn is made about the ball horizontally, describing an equator about the two former meridians. The whole being made snug and tight so that the enclosed earth cannot shake loose from the roots, the balling is complete. Balled trees should be handled very carefully, and not transported long distances in a lumber wagon if a spring wagon is to be had for the purpose.

BROKEN BALLS.-If by any mischance the dirt is crumbled within the sack the wrappings should be removed entirely upon planting the tree.

CONDITION OF THE SOIL FOR BALLING.From the description given of the process of balling, it must be evident to the reader that the soil should have a good degree of coherence to allow so much handling. A clayish sandy soil is best for balling. But the most favorable soil even, must be taken at just the proper time to make the operation successful. About the third or fourth day after a rain or an irrigation is a safe time to begin sacking.

WHEN SACKING IS NOT DESIRABLE.-It is not best to sack trees if they are taken from a stiff clay soil, or any soil, in fact, that is likely to bake hard. If the balls of earth become thus set they enclose the roots like a mold of plaster of Paris, and the tree cannot thrive.

PUDDLING.-In this method of trans

planting, the trench is first excavated and the tap roots cut as previously described. No effort is made, however, to preserve the earth intact about the roots. The tree being loosened, it is left standing in the trench with a shovelfull of dirt upon

the roots to keep them from drying. A puddle is formed at some convenient point by mixing loam and clay to the consistancy of thick cream. A sufficient number of trees having been dug, they are gathered up, a few at a time, and the roots of each immersed in the puddle. They are

thus encased with a film of soil which protects them from the drying action of the air. As an additional precaution, the roots are parked in damp straw for transit. For shipment long distances, a number of trees may be bunched together and their roots packed with damp straw in a barrel. The stocks and tops are generally wrapped with burlap, rushes or other material as a means of protection. The only objection I have ever heard urged against puddling trees is that the film of earth is sometimes

set so firmly upon the small roots that it chokes them, after the manner of the baked or hardened ball already alluded to.

PACKING IN DAMP STRAW.-With this method the tree is prepared in the same manner as just described, except that the puddling operation is omitted. I have

transplanted trees by this method as well as by puddling and balling, and I find that the damp straw alone answers every requirement.

The principal precaution to be observed

in transplanting orange trees is to avoid the contact of air with the roots. If the roots be thoroughly dried, the vitality of the tree is lost.

CHAPTER XIII. PLANTING AN ORCHARD.

DIGGING THE HOLES.-The stakes for the orchard having been set as described in a preceding chapter, the next operation is digging the holes.

SIZE OF HOLES.-If the ground has been properly prepared, there is no necessity for digging the hole larger than requisite for admitting the roots of the tree. If the trees are balled, a hole large enough to receive the ball is sufficient; if not balled, make it large enough to admit the roots in a natural position, i. e. without doubling on themselves. For the average three or four-year-old stock a hole eighteen to twenty inches across and the same depth is ample.

THE PLANTING BOARD.-A device in almost universal use for fixing the point where the tree should stand is known as the planting board.

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FIG. 20-THE PLANTING BOARD. It is a light strip about five feet long, with a notch (A) cut in the middle, and notches B and C at the extremities, as shown in the figure.

MANNER OF USING THE BOARD.—When about to dig the hole place the board on the ground so that the central notch A shall fit against the stake. Stick pins at notches B and C. The board may now be removed and the original stake at A pulled up and the hole dug in its place. When planting the tree, the exact place where it should stand is fixed by replacing the board so that the notches B and C fit upon their respective pegs, and the tree staning in the hole, is held upright at the notch A.

It is not necessary that the board be always laid on a parallel with the orchard

lines, as a little variation in the angle will make no difference in determining the middle point; but it is essential that the board be placed on the same side of the stakes each time. For example, if it is on the south side of the stake when the pins at the extremities are stuck, then it should be adjusted to these pins exactly in the same manner when the tree is set and the board be on the south side of the tree. To avoid confusion it is best to follow one rule throughout the orchard, placing the board always on the same side of the stakes.

THROWING THE DIRT.-In digging the holes it is best to throw the dirt clear of the pegs so that it shall not interfere with the replacing of the board. In localities where the surface earth is richer than the subsoil, painstaking planters throw the top earth in a pile by itself so that it can be first returned to the hole, about the roots, and the poorer soil filled in at the top.

PLANTING.-Two men work together to the greatest advantage in planting—one to place the board and hold the tree, and the other to shovel in the earth. The

operation is thus very quickly performed. If the trees are sacked, the balls are placed in the holes without disturbing the wrapping, which will shortly rot away and offer no impediment to the growing roots. If not sacked do not take them from their packing of straw until ready to plant each in turn. Then handle with as much celerity as possible without slighting the work. The lateral roots should be carefully arranged in the hole so that they lie in a natural position, none being doubled up or crossed.

LACERATED ROOTS.-If the tap root or laterals are lacerated, cut away the injured

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