instead of adopting the mode of sprinkling or sparging, now so generally practised, it will be found, that by turning the same number of barrels over (not under) the goods as we should do for a second mash, the extract may be quite as effectually washed out as by sparging.

Some mode, however, must be adopted to prevent the liquor, by running too rapidly, making a hole in the goods or malt in the tun, so as to raise them without the liquor finding its way directly through them. This can be easily accomplished by placing a board or bit of canvass on that part of the tun on which the liquor directly runs. If the malt (or goods) rise through the liquor on top, which will invariably happen with good malt in the course of ten or fifteen minutes, the worts may immediately be set a running as rapidly as the false bottom will permit. If, however, the malt does not rise, which sometimes happens with inferior malt, a short mash must be resorted to, after which ten minutes' standing will be quite sufficient. Where two boilings are necessary, the quantity turned over, in this second mash, should make up precisely the quantity wanted for the first boiling. Where there are two coppers, there can be no difficulty in the after proceedings, but where only one, we must be guided by existing circumstances. The great desideratum in all our operations is facility. When we have a raw or return wort to follow, the necessary quantity of

I

liquor for the second boiling may be turned on at once; but where no raw wort is taken, two or perhaps three washings are necessary to get the whole extract from the malt.

The third liquor, if the process be properly conducted, may generally be had from the copper, even although an open one: for the fourth and fifth we may with the greatest safety apply cold liquor; sprinkling, however, over the malt in the mash-tun a little common salt, or half the quantity of subcarbonate of soda or potash. As we have already stated, long boiling produces no preservative quality in the beer. Boiling for more than an hour is, therefore, unnecessary for the first

worts.

The worts of the third mash should be allowed to run, when the copper of the first worts begins to boil, thus allowing one hour for preparing the second boiling. The time of boiling the second worts must be regulated, of course, by the strength of the beer we intend to produce. Where the worts are boiled off at one boiling, the same course must be pursued; the only difference being that the third tap may be allowed to run a good deal sooner. All this, however, will be more thoroughly explained, and better understood, by referring to the practical brewings at the end of this book.-See "Mashing" for calculating the gravities.

A

very desirable appendage for summer brewing,

is a refrigerator, for cooling the beer to a certain temperature, after having thrown off its yeast. Beer must be cooled down to a temperature of at least 60° F. before it will become bright.

We have not yet alluded to the necessity of cleanliness in every department, and in summer brewing particularly. In summer, every vessel employed should be well washed after every process, and once a week a solution of chloride of lime ought to be employed in doing so. We will now conclude our remarks on summer brewing, by again stating, that unsoundness in the worts, however produced, is the source of failure, and that the only remedy is to trace out and remove the cause.

WINTER BREWING.

Ir is a very common observation, that any one can brew in winter, and certainly the chances of brewing successfully are much in favour of that season. In the first place, there is much less risk of the worts getting tainted during the process than in summer secondly, the yeast, which during summer will sometimes become unfit for use in a very few hours, is not in winter liable to any such speedy

changes; and will even keep for weeks in good working trim: thirdly, the stagnant, or even running water, which, from necessity, is often used in brewing, is in winter much less impregnated with organic matter and impurities than during summer: and thus no such bad effects need be apprehended in cold weather.

If, therefore, the brewhouse be so constructed as to avoid electro-chemical agency, the chances (so called) are much in favour of winter brewing.

Even in this season, wherever any galvanic agency takes place, the process of fermentation is quite as irregular as during summer, and the results are equally uncertain.

In some brewhouses, particularly in the country, the tun-rooms, or chambers in which the fermenting tuns are placed, are so situated as to be affected by every change of temperature. The fermentations in the said tun-rooms must consequently suffer from any sudden change. The great danger arises from a very sudden fall; for instance, we often find that the thermometer will fall 20° or even 30° in the course of a night, and when the tun-rooms are sc situated as to be liable to the same change from the sudden decrease in temperature, the fermenta. tions will often become stationary, and cannot b made to progress, unless the temperature be agai: raised by artificial means.

For this purpose, it is a common practice ir

small concerns, to fill small casks with boiling water, and place them in the fermenting tuns, changing the water in the said casks, until the desired effect is produced. Others, where there are metal regulators in the tuns, run some hot water through them for the same purpose: this we have seen attended with bad consequences, whether from galvanism or not, we are not prepared to say. It is a practice which we do not recommend.

Mode of accelerating Fermentation when

Languid.

A mode different from either, we have uniformly found successful; and it produces the desired effect much more quickly. A very slight rise in the temperature will again promote the fermentation; and the more speedily the required heat can be communicated, the better the effect.

If, therefore, brewing is going on next day, run a certain portion of either the first or second worts, as circumstances may require, into the stationary gyle-tun. Let them be as hot as possible; if only just off the boil, so much the better; about one gallon to a barrel, or even less may be enough.

If no brewing is going on, heat up the requisite quantity of worts, taken from the stationary gyletun, to the boiling temperature, or if there be no easy means of doing this, use in the same way about an equal quantity of boiling water. At the