One road leads hence, over the Vosges, to

LA POUTROYE (35 kil.), on the Wuss, and the lakes at its source, called Lac Blanc and Lac Noir, or Black and White. They are near the highest part of the mountain range. At 21 kil. further is Colmar, on the Strasbourg railway (see Route 54).

Another road brings you to GEMAINCOTTE (12 kil.); and 12 kil. further east, to STE. MARIEAUX-MINES, on the Liepvrette, in a pretty valley under the highest part of the Vosges, and so called from the mines of lead, silver, copper, zinc, and arsenic around it. It has manufactures of cotton siamoises, &c., paper, kirsch-wasser, and dye-works. Population, 11,600, some of whom are harmless descendants of the once turbulent Munster Anabaptists. Good mineral springs, but the air is sharp. At 22 kil. beyond this (past St. Hippolyte and its castle), is Schlestadt, on the Strasbourg railway (see Route 54).]

Raon l'Etape (10 kil.), on the Meurthe, a station on the Lunéville and St. Dié rail (Route 54). Up a branch of it, the Plaine (or else by way of Sennones and St. Jean du Mont), you come to

SCHIRMECK (about 36 kil.), in the Vosges, or 39 kil. from St. Dié, as above, over the new German frontier. About 8 kil. south is the Ban de la Roche, for which, and the rest of the road to Strasbourg, see BRADSHAW's Hand-Book to Belgium and the Rhine.

From Epinal, a short line, called Ligne de la Vologne, in connection with the Chemins de fer des Vosges, proceeds up the Vologne, parting off at Arches, 7 miles from Epinal, as in Route 59. It passes Jarmenil (2 miles), Docelles (2 miles), Deycimont (2 miles) Lepanges (1 mile), to Bruvères (34 miles), and Laveline (23 miles), the terminus, where conveyances may be got for Fraize (on a branch of the Meurthe), Corcieux, Granges (in a fine mountain valley), and GÉRARDMER. This is a place, 12 miles distant, in the heart of the Vosges mountains, from which a fall called the Saut des Cuves, the lake of Retournemer, and the Schlouck, and the Honeck, two of the finest mountain peaks in the range may be

visitca.

ROUTE 61.

Strasbourg to Hagenau, Weissenbourg, and Mannheim.

For the country along this route, now transferred to Germany, see BRADSHAW's Hand-Book to Belgium and the Rhine.

SUB-SECTION B.-ROUTES VIA THE DIRECT BELFORT LINE.

ROUTE 62.

Paris to Montereau, Troyes, Chaumont, Gray, Langres, Bourbonne-les-Bains, Vesoul, Plombières, Belfort, and Mulhouse.

By rail, 304 miles. This is the shortest route to Mulhouse; through trains, 12 to 16 hours. Opened, 1858. Embarcadère in Place de Strasbourg.

A suburban branch of this line to Vincennes and La Varenne-St. Maur sta ts from Place de 1 Bastille, passing Bel Air, St. Maudé, Vincennes, and its fort; then Fontenay-sousBois, Nogent-sur-Marne, Joinville-le-Pont, St. Maur-Port Créteil, Parc de St. Maur, Champigny, and La Varenne-St. Maur. Hence to Sucy-en-Brie was opened 1872.

For Belfort, we follow the Strasbourg line to Noisy-le-Sec (5 miles), after which it turns

off to

Rosny-sous-Bois (23 miles), followed by Nogent-sur-Marne (2 miles), close to the viaduct over the Marne, 2,625 feet long, on 30 arches, the middle ones being '64 feet wide, and 67 feet high. Coaches to Petit Bry, Noisy-le

Grand, Neuilly-sur-Marne.

Villiers-sur-Marne (24 miles), in department Seine-et-Marne. Coaches to Plessis-Trévise, Chen nevières, Ormesson, Sucy-en-Brie.

Emerainville-Pontault (4 miles).

Coache

to Pontant, Ferolles, Chevry, Champs, Forey. Ozouer-la-Ferrière (3 miles).

Gretz-Armainvilliers (3 miles), where th branch rail to Coulommiers (20) miles) turns [It passes Tournon (1 mile), Marles-1Houssaye (5 miles), Mortcerf (43 mile Guérard (3 miles). Faremoutiers miles, on the Aubelin, Mouroux (2) mile

and Coulommiers (1 mile) on the Morin, as in Route 54.]

Villepatour-Coubert (3 miles). Coach to

Coubert.

Ozouer-le-Voulgis (3 miles).

Verneuil-Chaumes (2 miles). Coaches to Guignes, Andrezel, Champeaux.

Mormant (3 miles), has a good spire church, and (in its neighbourhood) the moated Château de Bressey, with another at Courpalais or Grange Blenau, which belonged to Lafayette's family. Here Lafayette lived, and was visited by Fox, who planted the ivy over the gateway. It has portraits of Presidents of the United States, and of Franklin, Kosciusko, Bailly, Rochefoucauld, &c., besides the Flag of the States, given to Lafayette on his last visit to America. Coaches to Rosoy, Jouy-leChâtel, Breau, La Chapelle-Gant, Melun.

Grandpuits (3 miles).

Nangis (3 miles), in a fertile hollow of the Brie country, has a population of 2,200, who trade in corn, butter, cheese. Two towers of the château of its marquises remain, besides an ancient Gothic church. Napoléon defeated the Allies here, 1814. There is a still older church at Ramillon (4 kil. east).

Maison-Rouge (6 miles), or Leudon. Coaches to Donnemarrie and Chemoise.

Longueville (5 miles). Here a short branch ruil of 8 miles turns off to Provins. Coaches to Bray-sur-Seine, on the river's south bank, at the bridge to Mony.

[Provins. Population, 7,550. Hotels.-De France; De Fontaine.

A sous-préfecture in department Seine-et-Marne,

in a fertile spot, on the Voulzie and Durtein, on the side of a hill. There are many middleage remains of walls and buildings, from its having grown out of a royal castle, founded before 1120. It suffered much in the civil and religious wars. In Haute Ville are the walls, traces of the château, and St. Quirian's church, which has a good choir, cupola, &c. Near it stood, till lately, the Tour de César, built in the 13th century.

The two old gates of St. Jean and Jouy lead down to Basse Ville, where the modern houses are, surrounded by walls, with two churches;

the old Cordeliers convent, now the hospital, founded by the Counts of Champagne, 1050; and a mineral spring (with a bath-house), useful in all cases of debility, &c. Part of the old town is excavated into caves and underground passages. The rivers turn many cornmills and dye-works.

Trade in grain, wood, leather, and confectionery made from roses, grown here-the true seat of the Provins (not Provence) rose.

About 17 kil. to the north, near Louan, are the fine and extensive ruins of Montaguillon, in a forest.]

Chalmaison (2 miles). At

Flamboin (1 mile), is the branch down the Seine, to Montereau, uniting this with the Lyons rail.

Châtenay (44 miles). Population, 620. Montereau (8 miles), on the Lyons rail, as in

Route 20. A viaduct on 4 arches, each 79 feet span, crosses the Yonne.]

On the main line, the next station to Flamboin is, Hermé (3 miles), near the château of Flamboix. Melz (3 miles) on the Forêt river; beyond which a viaduct in three parts, 216 feet long, crosses the Seine, near Bernières château.

Nogent-sur-Seine (3 miles).

Hotels.-Du Cygne d'Or (Golden Swan); Du Signe de la Croix (Sign of the Cross).

A sous-préfecture (in department Aube) of 3,600 souls, on the Seine, opposite the weir or fall, where it becomes navigable. It belonged to St. Denis's abbey, and came at length to the family of Cardinal de Noailles. The allies, under Prince Schwartzenburg, took it by storm, when held by Bourmont in 1814, when the Hôtel de Ville and a bridge were destroyed. The large church was built between the reigns of Charles VI. and Henry II.; the tower has a turret (built 1521-42), with a figure of St. Laurent on top. Trade in millinery, grain charcoal, leather rope. Coach to Villenauxe. [About 8 kil. east-south-east, on the Ardasson, aro remains of the monastery founded, 1123, by Abelard, who fled here from his enemies, and

called it Paraclete (i. e., comforter); which became a convent under his wife, Heloise, and was the burial-place of both. Their bodies remained here till removed to the Père la Chaise, about 1793, and placed under the monument brought from Abélard's first grave, at Chalons-sur-Saône. A pillar set up by General Pajol marks where they lay here, before this change. VILLENAUXE (9 kil.) north-north-west, noted for its white wine and vinegar, is on a branch of the Seine, and was once fortified. The Benedictine monks of Nesle la Réposte Abbey (founded 501), came here in the 16th century, and rebuilt their Church of the original stones, as it now stands-a large and elegant structure, having a light spire, beautiful stained windows of the sixteenth century, when the art was perfected, and, among other carvings, a curious one in the porch, of a web-footed queen, supposed to be Clothilde.]

Pont-sur-Seine (4 miles), or Pont-le-Roi, in a pretty spot on the Seine, where the Aube joins, had a hunting château of the Counts of Champagne, built by Le Muet, in which Napoléon's mother lived. Being burnt by the Russians, 1814, it was rebuilt by Casimir Perier, 830, in the Italian style.

Population, 1,950. In the neighbourhood

is a large dolmen or cromlech, of one great stone on three or four others; besides others lying about, called by the people Tombeaux Romains (Roman tombs).

Romilly (6 miles) in a fertile hollow on the Seine, has a beautiful château, on the site of an old moated fortress. Needles, &c., are made. About

kil. west-north-west are two arches of the Cistercian abbey of Scelliérces, where Voltaire's body (having been refused burial by the Paris clergy) lay from 1778 till 1791, when it was moved to the Pantheon. A stone, with A V on it, marks the spot. Coach to Anglure and Sézanne.

[SÉZANNE (18 kil. south-south-west of Champaubert), on the Auges, which supplies mills and bleach works, was a tower of Gallia-Comata, destroyed by Thibault IV., Count of Champagne. It was rebuilt and taken by the English, 1223; and suffered fro n the Huguenots and from fire; so that it has modern,

well-built look, with a good church, hospital, &c. Population, 4,600. A rail is intended to pass via Sézanne, uniting Romilly, on the Mulhouse, to Epernay, on the Strasbourg line.]

Mesgrigny (7 miles) is reached by a viaduct across the étang or lake. Coaches to Méry, Plancy, and Arcis.

[MERY-SUR-SEINE (3 kil.) is a small decayed town, on the Scine, frequently attacked in earlier times, and finally burnt by Blücher, 1814. ARCIS-SUR-AUBE (23 kil. east), a sous-préfecture, in department Aube, of 2,800 souls, on the Aube, where it is first navigable, was burnt in the defence made by Napoléon, with a small force, against 80,000 Austrians, in 1814. A small suspension bridge, 56 feet long (cost only 600 francs), leads to Dampierre, where the general of that name is buried, and which has a château, built 1671, by Mansard. The views from the hills around command good prospects. Danton, the terrorist, was born here.]

St. Mesmin (3 miles), so called after St. Mesmin, whom Attila put to death, 451; before that it was called Brolium.

Barberey (8 miles), in a good pasture country, noted for its cheeses. At 3 miles further is

TROYES.

A buffet, 103 miles from Paris, 203 from Mulhouse. HOTELS.-Du Grand Mulet; Du Commerce; Des Couriers; De France; De Paris; Du Char d'Or.

OBJECTS OF NOTICE.-Cathedral-The MallChurches of St. Urban, Madeline, Pantaleon-Hôtel de Ville.

Population, 36,000; at one time it had 50,000. Chief town of department Aube (formerly of province of Champagne), seat of a bishop, a society of agriculture, &c., in a wide and fertile plain (dotted with country-houses), on the Seine, which divides itself here into several canals; though for drinking the water is entirely drawn from wells in the chalk. It was the head town of the Tricases or Trece, whence comes the modern name. Attila threatened it, 451, and the Normans pillaged it, 889. a few years after the meeting here, of Pope John VIII. and Louis le Bégue about the succession to

the imperial crown. Under its count, Thibault IV., in the 12th century, it became a great place for trading fairs; and hence we get the Troy Pound of twelve ounces. It was held by the English after the treaty of 1420, by which Henry V. married Katharine, daughter of Charles VI., and was to succeed to the French crown; but Charles VII. retook it, 1429. The parliament of Paris was sent here, 1787. Napoléon made it his head-quarters, 1814.

On the top of the old walls, built by the Romans, but much altered since their time, is a promenade called the Mall. The town gates are called the Hector, Andromaque, Paris, &c., all fancifully named in remembrance of old Troy. Porte St. Jaques, near the bridge, is flanked by two lowpeaked Gothic towers and turrets. Close to the Porte de Paris was a royal château, burnt in the great fire of 1524, along with a second, which belonged to the Counts of Champagne, and a third which stood hard by the Cordeliers' convent, which make some derive the town's name from tres arces (three castles). The streets are full of old gableended houses, of carved and plastered timber, as ancient as the 16th century, for the most part. Among its eight churches is

St. Étienne's Cathedral, begun 1208-25 (on the site of one as old as 872), and carried on till the west front was built, about 1506-20. This front has a good tower, 204 feet high (there were to have been two), and a fine stained rose window. It is 371 feet long, and 164 wide through the transept. The nave, exclusive of its five aisles, is 34 feet wide and 96 high, ornamented, like the choir, with windows of the 13th century, containing finely stained portraits of kings, counts, bishops, saints, &c., all in costume.

St. Urban's beautiful collegiate church was built in the 13th century, by Pope Urban IV., born the son of a tailor here, whose trade is painted in one of the windows. Excellent stained windows are seen, in Ste. Madeleine's ancient church, of the 11th and 16th centuries, with a well-carved rood-loft (by J. Galdo, 1518), one of five, for which the city was noted; also in St. Pantaleon's, which has, besides, twenty statues close to its pillars. St. Nicholas offers a good portal; St. Jean, an altar piece of the Baptism of Christ, by Mignard, a native; St.

Remy, a bronze crucifix, 33 feet high, by Girardon another native.

The Hôtel de Ville, built 1624-70, by Mansard, has a good front, with busts of natives, and Girardon's medallion of Louis XIV. At the Bibliothèque are as many as 55,000 volumes, and 5,000 MSS., in a room 164 feet long; also specimens of glass, painted by Linard Gouthier, with scenes from the Life of Henry IV. The Musée contains a gallery of pictures, a collection of minerals, &c. Two tombs of Henry I. and Thibault III. (1180-1200) are placed in the Bishop's Palace.

Notice the old timbered abattoirs or shambles, wine and corn halls (the latter has a fine timbered roof), the pepinière, or nursery, &c.

The manufactures are a chalk preparation, called blanc d'Espagne (Spanish white), cotton stockings, and caps.

Rail or coach to Bar-sur-Seine, Châtillon-surSeine, Les Riceys, Essois.

[The rail to Bar-sur-Seine, &c., passes Maisons (5 miles), St. Parre-les-Vaudes (5 miles), &c., to

Bar-sur-Seine (8 miles), a sous-préfecture of 2,500 population, in a fertile valley among vineyards on the Seine (crossed by a stone bridge), below the junction of the Ource and Laignes. It must have been a large place in Froissart's time (1359), when the English burnt "900 bons hôtels," (houses). Like Barsur-Aube, &c., its name (Bar) indicates that it was a provincial frontier town. It has a good Gothic cross-shaped church. On St. Germain's Hill, is the rustic Chapel of Nôtre Dame, founded 1070, by Simon de Valois. Hotel.-Du Cheval Blanc (White Horse). At 19 kil. west-south-west of Bar-sur-Seine, is CHAOURCE, near the head of the Amance, which turns several mills. Amadis Jamyn, a poet of the 16th century, was a native. About 15 kil. south, in the valley of the Laignes, are LES RICEYS, viz.:-Ricey Haut, Ricey Haute-Rive, and Ricey Bas, three places founded, they say, by industrious Swiss settlers, with good spire churches, and noted for wine. Population, 3,564.

Still going up the river, the branch line passes Gyé-sur-Seine (5 miles), Mussy (5)

miles), &c., to Châtillon-sur-Seine (9) miles), on the Nuits branch of the Lyons line (Route 20), which comes from the south-west; and is continued north-east from Châtillon to Chaumont, viâ Brion-sur-Ource (5} miles), on a branch of the Seine, Courban (3 miles), Veuxaulles (3 miles), near the Aube, Château Villain (9 miles), as below, and Bricon (5 miles), on the main line next to Chaumont (7 miles).]

From Troyes, the next stations are

Rouilly-St. Loup (5 miles), Lusigny (44 miles), in a forest, Montieramey (4 miles), on the

Barse.

Vendeuvre (6 miles), among hills and vineyards, at the Barse's head, has an ancient Château, which belonged to Henry of Luxembourg, 1614. and a church, with this inscription to a woman (1599): "qui ami bien, tard oublie." The ground is so strong that it takes eight or ten horses to the plough. In the charming valley of Val-Suzenay is a pilgrim's chapel, where a fête is held on the 8th of September.

Jessains (6 miles). Coach to Brienne-Napoléon. [BRIENNE-NAPOLÉON (14 kil. north-north-west), was formerly Brienne-le-Château, so called from the fine seat built by Louis, its last count, and was noted, till 1790, for the military school, in the Minimes convent, to which the young Corsican, Napoléon, was sent as a king's pensioner, 1799-84. Nothing is left of it. In 1814, . the allies were defeated here by Napoléon. He was nearly run through by the lance of a Cossack, who was shot dead at the Emperor's feet.]

Bar-sur-Aube (6 miles), a sous-préfecture of 4,450 souls, in a fine spot among the vineyards of the Aube, belonged to the early kings of France, and was noted for its trading fairs, attended by the Dutch, Germans, &c. Besides remains of a castle on Châtelet hill, it has a hospital of the 11th century, two ancient churches, and a stone bridge, over which Charles VII., in 1440, threw his rebellious subject, the Bastard of Bourbon, tied up in a sack. In 1814, Marshal Mortier here defeated the Austrians, who, a little after, defeated Oudinot. Trade in white wine, eaux-de-vie, &c.

Hotels.-De la Poste; Du Mulet; De la Pomme d'Or (Golden Apple).

Clairvaux (8 miles), up the Aube, now a central House of Correction for 2,000 prisoners from thirteen departments, was once famous for the Cistercian abbey, founded 1105-14, by Hugh, count of Troyes, and St. Bernard. Here was the capacious Tun of Clairvaux, which held 2,000 hectolitres (each 24 gallons) of wine; with smaller casks, which held 250 to 1,000 hectolitres. Straw hats, gloves, &c., are made. A little north-west, in the forest, is Arconville-a great heap of stones, or cairn, gradually made by the contributions of passers by, on the spot where a Huguenot was killed in the wars of the League.

Maranville (33 miles), in department Haute

Marne.

[To the north-east is Cirey Château, where Voltaire lived with the Duchesse de Châtelet. About 12 kil. north-west of this stands Tremilly, the old moated seat of the Trémouilles, flanked by two pyramidal towers, &c., and now belonging to the Broglie family.]

Bricon (6 miles), where the Châtillon loop line comes in, viâ Château-Villain, as above. [Château-Villain (5 miles), on the Anjou be

longed to the Orléans family, and was one of the finest seats in Champagne, before the Revolution. ARC-EN-BARROIS (2 kil. southsouth-east) higher up the Anjou, was a fortified town in Burgundy, and latterly the property of Madame Adelaide d'Orléans.]

At 7 miles from Bricon is

CHAUMONT, or Chaumont-en-Bassigny, 162 miles from Paris.

Here the lines from Blesme and Neufchâteau come in, via Bologne (see Route 54).

HOTELS.-De l'Ecu de France (French Crownpiece); De les Arbre d'Or (Golden Tree); De la Poste. Population, 7, 140.

Chief town of department Marne, on a ridge of the Marne, where the Suize joins. It grew out of a castle built by the Counts of Champagne, was fortified by Louis XII., and is known in modern times for the treaty signed here by the Allies, against Napoléon, 1814. Some parts of it are well built; but there is little worth notice. Among the