CHAPTER IX. CROSS AND CRESCENT IN CONFLICT..... 109 Missionary Influence Extended-The Gospel in Many Tongues -The Moslems Alert and Aggressive-The Struggle to be Con- Education and Missions-Polycarp's Confession and Tomb- How Brigands Ply Their Vocation-John's Letter to Smyrna CHAPTER XI. BEIRUT, DAMASCUS AND BAALBEC....... 133 The American Press and the American College-Message of a Veteran Missionary-Damascus and the Temple Ruins at Baal- CHAPTER XII. HIGHER EDUCATION IN TURKEY. 148 Colleges Founded by Missionaries and Backed by American Gold-Instruction, Not Conversion, the Aim of Some Institutions. CHAPTER XIII. NAZARETH AND THE SEA OF GALILEE.. 162 The Boyhood Home of Jesus—A Part of Palestine Replete with Bible History-Sites of Capernaum and Bethsaida. CHAPTER XIV. JERUSALEM AND THE JORDAN VALLEY 177 Through the Plain of Sharon-Interesting Days in the Holy City-Bethlehem, and the Mount of Olives--On the Way to Jericho. CHAPTER XV. EGYPT AND THE NILE..... 200 The Gift of the River-Tribute to Turkey and Under the Con- trol of England—A Holy War Suggested–The Suez Canal. CHAPTER XVI. ITALY: PEOPLE, ART AND RELIGION... 219 Naples and Vesuvius-Messina and the Disaster--Rome: Churches, and Ruins-Florence: Art and Romance-Pisa and Its CHAPTER XVII. THE CRUISE OF THE ARABIC.... ... 245 Three Continents and Many Countries Visited-Excursions in Spain, Greece, the Holy Land, Egypt and Italy-Lasting Friend- HOME THOUGHTS FROM EUROPE. ... 256 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE 52 Mediterranean, Bird's-eye View of the....Frontispiece 17 Jaffa Harbor... 19 Funchal, Madeira. 23 Funchal, Toboggan Slide. 27 Ponta Delgada, A Garden in. 30 Azore Islands, Native Costume. 33 Gibraltar, Rock of.. 35 Granada, The Generaliffe Near the Alhambra. 45 Granada, The Alhambra.. 47 Granada, Street Scene in.. 49 Seville, Garden of the Alcazar. Seville Cathedral, Tomb of Columbus. 53 Seville, Cathedral and Giralda... 54 Algiers, A Mosque in...... 59 Algiers, Women in Street Costume. 59 Algiers, Plaster Cast of Geronimo. 59 Malta Harbor.... 59 Malta, St. Paul's Bay. 59 Greece, The King and Queen of. 69 Athens, The Acropolis.. 69 Athens, The Caryatides. 69 Athens, The Stadium.. 69 Athens, Mars' Hill, Where Paul Preached. 69 Acro-Corinth..... 81 Corinth, Remains of a Christian Church at. 83 Constantinople and the Bosphorus.. 87 Constantinople, The Bible House.. 91 Constantinople, Mosque of St. Sophia. Constantinople, The Imperial Palace. 97 Smyrna, American Collegiate Institute. 124 Smyrna, At Tomb of Polycarp... 126 Ephesus, Gateway of St. John's Church. 130 93 PAGE Beirut, Place de Canon.... 137 Beirut, Rev. Dr. H. H. Jessup. 140 Constantinople, Robert College. 151 Beirut, Syrian Protestant College. 154 Beirut, Rev. Dr. Howard S. Bliss. 155 Nazareth, The Village and Fountain of Mary. 164 Galilee, Tiberias and the Sea of.. 174 Jerusalem, David Street.. 181 Jerusalem, Russian Pilgrims.. 182 Jerusalem, A Band of Lepers.. 185 Good Samaritan Inn... 186 Jerusalem, Church of the Holy Sepulcher. 188 Bethlehem, Church of the Nativity.. 192 Jerusalem, Gethsemane and Its Keeper. 195 Jerusalem, Damascus Gate.... 197 Nile, Sailing on the... 202 Cairo, An Egyptian Woman. 204 Pyramids, Climbing the.. 209 Sphinx and the Pyramids, The. 214 Cairo, Seti I. in the Museum of. 216 Naples and Vesuvius, Bay of... 222 Naples, Street Scene in.. 224 Sicily, A Sicilian Cart.. 225 Messina Before the Earthquake. 226 Messina, Ruins of. 227 Messina, The New. 228 Rome, The Appian Way 229 Rome, St. Peter's.... 230 Florence, The Campanile. 234 Florence on Holy Saturday 237 Fiesole, Near Florence... 238 Pisa, Leaning Tower and Cathedral. 239 Venice, Bridge of Sighs... 242 Venice, The Winged Lion of. Cover and 243 Venice, On the Grand Canal.. 244 Arabic Party, Some Members of the.. 247 Leonard, Rev. Dr. Joel.. 250 Lord Bishop of Ontario, The.. 250 THE CLASSIC MEDITERRANEAN CHAPTER I ITS ROMANCE AND HISTORY NOBLY, nobly Cape Saint Vincent to the northwest died away; -ROBERT BROWNING. TO 10 be known as the school of the human race is an honor possible for only one place on earth. Dr. J. S. Howson, an English scholar of renown, has given this distinction to the Mediterranean Sea. Another Englishman, Dr. Samuel Johnson, declares that the grand object of traveling is to see the shores of the Mediterranean, on which have rested the four great empires of the world: the Assyrian, the Persian, the Grecian and the Roman. He maintains that all of our religion, nearly all of our law, the majority of our arts, almost all that sets us above savages, have come to us from the shores of the Mediterranean. “Come and make one of my family party; in all your life you will never, probably, have a chance 66 an again to see so much in so short a time. Consider it is as easy as a journey to Paris and Baden." With such invitation William Makepeace Thackeray tells us in his delightful travel story under the title of “The Notes of a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo," how he joined an excursion to Mediterranean ports in the fall of 1844. In thirty-six hours after accepting the invitation he was ready for his journey, which occupied two months. His experiences along the coast of Spain, at Lisbon and Cadiz, and in the Mediterranean at Gibraltar, Algiers, Malta, Athens, Constantinople, Smyrna, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Alexandria and Cairo, lose nothing from the fact that they were recorded some seventy years ago. Many of them could not be duplicated at the present time; a few of them it would be better not to repeat. And what is the Sea over which the great English writer sailed so pleasantly in the Forties of the last century, and of which so many of his admirers have delightful memories in the opening decades of the present century? “The Sea within the Land” is the literal meaning of the word Mediterranean. To the Hebrews it was “The Great Sea”; the Romans called it “Our Sea.” The prayer of Wordsworth, expressed in a sonnet when Sir Walter Scott went from Abbotsford to Naples, gives it another name: “Be true, |